Knife Crimes wrote:

I can't think of anything that would connect the issues you report with LSDJ to the replacement power regulator. Maybe a coincidence? Others might know better than me.

It does seem possible that backlight LEDs would be able to draw more current from the new source and thus run a little hotter. A higher value current limiting resistor could be an option.

I happen to have the RetroSix board on order at the moment, so I'll endeavour to report back when it arrives.

I did some backtracking on my particular backlight to see if I might've installed it incorrectly and I stumbled upon a video that Nonfinite Electronics uploaded long after I had installed my backlight and he is definitely not soldering the backlight to the same points that I did.

(The video is filmed from far away so it's impossible to see which points he's using, maybe someone knows:
https://youtu.be/YO_Ed6wjwBI?t=344)

I'm using these points but without the resistor, maybe that's where my problem lies..

However I'm pretty certain that Nonfinite stated back when this  backlight was released that there would be no need for any additional resistors because they were built in.

Perhaps that someone with more expertise could clarify all this; I'd be mighty thankful cause I'm desperate to get my DMG up and running without having to wait for additional parts and lengthy shipments etc.

It should be added that the CleanPower board outputs 6V instead of 5V if I understood correctly from the previous posts.

It sounds like something that happened to an old USB-stick of mine a couple of years ago and I was unable to restore the stick. Maybe windows does something funky that kills the NAND. I'm sorry about the cart

So I thought I'd give a little update on how the RetroSix CleanPower V1.0 power regulator board worked for me.

I have an old classic backlight mod from Nonfinite Electronics (V5) that made the old original Nintendo power regulator board overheat so I installed this CleanPower board with hopes that it would fix this issue.
But unfortunately I've run into many issues with my Game Boy since the installation.

I use LSDJ (V4.9.2) on an EMS Flashcart and I can't even press play before I it freezes and I get the "Don't Panic" screen in LSDJ.
Weirdly enough when I have let the DMG idle for a while it manages to play my track, but then I notice that it has glitches that the track didn't have before, it even makes the built in speaker give off a weird humming background noise.

So the heat that was generated from the old power regulator board is gone, but now it seems like a new source of heat has appeared and is coming from just underneath the screen; which I assume is the LEDs that are heating up.

Sooo, I really don't quite know if this is such a great idea for chip musicians.

Maybe someone has a clue of what's going on?

Duck wrote:

the one I got off bay linked above (with plastic bracket) didn't seem to have the light leak issue tbh,

The one you linked looks promising, although it's not specified whether it is V2 or V3, cause I can't have unresponsive buttons which is the main issue with the V2 when I'm gonna chiptune.
Haven't placed the order yet but I think I might just go with that one + a precut case.

Shifty Pixlz wrote:

Well I got mine of AliExpress and it APPEARS to be the same thing as what's in the HHL photos... Except HHL also have a PLASTIC adapter available to make installation easier (without it, alignment of the screen in the case is done by eye and it's held in with tape.)

You'll likely get better support from HHL if you end up needing it.
But for me, the cost of shipping to New Zealand from anywhere but China was gonna be waaaaay too expensive.

I see!
I've been following @JoeBleeps channel on youtube lately where he regularly posts videos with the latest news in regards to gameboy mods, which is super cool.
Here's one of his latest videos addressing some light bleed with the dmg ips mod:
https://youtu.be/q6QaXcz7kx0

I don't really need that insane level of perfection cause I'm gonna use it mostly for chiptune but I'm also thinking that if I'm gonna invest in this mod, I might as well do it properly! For me that bracket alignment thing is a must-have because hot glue and tape solutions make me cringe wink

Thank you all for sharing,
Is there any difference in quality of these driver PCBs for the IPS screens?
I mean is HHL the same sauce as the ones that you can pick up cheaper on ebay?

7

(3 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Very interesting, great job!

Yes smile

Thanks a bunch for your reply, very interesting.

I also saw a youtuber named Jan Beta that compared the power draw from the IPSv2 mod with an original backlight mod and he also pointed out that it drew more power than the original front panel board with the classic backlit screen mod.

I might try to get a kit to install to a DMG that has a messed up the screen from a previous attempt to install a classic  backlight mod years ago.
I've seen on HHL that there's a IPSv3 out now; it would be interesting to know if the power consumption is lower on that one, which version of the IPS mod do you have?

What prosound mod do you use? Internal, 3,5mm or RCA?

Good evening,
I've seen a little revolution happening with the gameboys getting IPS screens and I might buy one myself to install on a dmg with a broken screen.

Are there any sound quality drawbacks using these screens? Has anyone of you had any noise issues with these new screens with a pro-sound mod?

I'm curious about both the old gameboys, gameboy colors and the gameboy advances since I think I've seen that they all have some implementation of the IPS screen mod.

Kind regards,

Scanian Wolf

catskull wrote:

Have you seen this? https://retrosix.co.uk/CleanPower-Regul … p141361110

Full disclosure: I did not read your post

I've been looking for this type of product for a good while because of my favourite DMG that's overheating with its' backlit screen mod, thanks for sharing.
Too bad the shipment cost is insane from that site, and I'm in the same continent as the seller.
Edit: Also found that the seller was selling from ebay where the shipping cost was halv so I bought a board there. Thank you.

.exe wrote:

Covering up excessive clicking can be tough.

The basic strategy is to try to reduce the usage and/or frequency of any commands and tables, as these can increase ticking noises and instead rely on instrument settings as much as possible. This doesn't reduce the clicking at the beginning/end of notes unless if you're using commands at that time, but reducing clicking overall makes it less noticable.

Another thing you can do is to try to decrease the resolution of waveforms, because even with silky wave you still get a little bit of clicking when the waveform changes. Again, this won't reduce clicking at the beginning/end of a sound but it helps overall.

Another thing is, as said above, when a whole track is playing it blends in, so if you try to make your track a little more layered that can help. Every little bit helps.

I know those options are not great, but that is part of the challenge. Do not feel bad about removing noise in post production, and when you play live no one will notice. The dirty secret is that a lot of people do it. Recording in the BGB emulator can help because it separates channels, so you can remove noise in each channel appropriately.

There's one more strategy which I don't see people talk about, which is a little counter intuitive. If you use the noise channel a tiny bit in such a way that blends with the clicking and the sound itself, you can actually make it sound less noisy overall. This is what I did with the chord sound at the very beginning of ULTRAACID XX: https://soundcloud.com/dotexechiptune/ultraacid-xx - The chord notes make tons of clicking on their own since it's two pulse sounds with envelopes on top of a full resolution wave channel sound with nothing else playing. I added a small noise channel tone on top of each chord note that ends just after the chord notes, and just tweaked it until you could barely hear the noise tone in isolation but it dramatically decreased the percieved clicking. There is still some noise but the sound was incredibly bad before. There is no post-processing beyond amplification. I think you could even get it to sound better than this because there is some additional noise I didn't hear on my headphones when I first made the track and I didn't explore this strategy much. This strategy is situational and difficult but I hope it helps.

Thanks for your post, I'm gonna take a look at your suggestions!

Aren't EMS cartridges notorious for drawing a lot of juice from your game boys?
Not that it should make your GBA turn off like that.. Maybe something went wrong when replacing the battery on the cart?

14

(16 replies, posted in General Discussion)

@scanianwolf

15

(2 replies, posted in Atari)

Brilliant!

Dolby-Z wrote:

Soo i know about Cubase & I know there are a handful of trackers for the ST's built-in sound hardware, but is there any software out there that will let me sequence external gear and the ST's sound chip at the same time?

Gwem, the developer of MaxYmiser just released an update to it, I think it's able to achieve this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0lu_rIHRPk
I have no experience with Notator, but isn't that made for this purpose or only external instruments?

I'm rather ST-rookie myself so I'm curious whether someone knows the proper way of achieving this.