Doctor Octoroc wrote:For live play you'd need a really good PA that cuts out background noise. [...]
Thank you for sharing this! I actually never went through that level of precision noise removal. But I guess it's necessary since you also record each channel separately and that triples or quadruples the noise depending on whether the source is a gameboy or a nes.
Personally I've mostly used plugins that capture the noise profile from a little bit of isolated noise that you record before hitting play on your gameboy and then applying reduction to the entire recording. This is ok, but can sometimes introduce some artefacts etc.
Your method should be much better, given that you've already have modified your console with the necessary mods to clean up your signal to a maximum before recording.
The GBA is another beast however. I started off with no mod, then I did a prosound mod to the GBA which really boosted the signal and it got a bit louder and cleaner. Then retrosix released this great documentation and I bought their capacitor kit and installed it. I wasn't super baffled by the result, it could also come down to my soldering skills with the super small surface mount capacitors, but nevertheless it had some subtle improvement.
Now it seems like Helder's game tech has simplified and refined the process with the surface mount capacitor soldering with a custom made PCB that adds 3 x 11uF of capacitance (Each capacitor should be rated 6,3V or preferably 10V) to points around the GBAs CPU.
I think I actually might purchase some of Helder's capacitor boards and the other general capacitor kit they sell and report back.
EDIT: By the way, if you use an IPS screen this could definitely be a source of more noise! You should then perhaps consider buying Helder's 'normal' capacitor kit and replace those on you GBA, or you could just look up the values and buy them yourself from where you want to, he has posted the values on his site, just click the link above.