Personally, all I'd use an Ouya for is emulation, none of the "exclusives" besides Towerfall are that good.

Look on Craigslist for one. Local sellers near me are unloading them, still in the box, because they backed the Kickstarter and already hate the console.

Also, check the batteries in your Pocket perhaps? Sometimes cartridges which draw an abnormally large amount of current, like EMS carts, can cause issues if your batteries are weak, especially with Pockets. I don't know if this is the case here though.

228

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

So you tried a different power supply and it just worked? Awesome. smile

229

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

Well, after examining the output of the wall wart with my meter I kinda guessed something was up. I was going to throw it on the 'scope and see just how bad things were, but rather than dig it out of storage just to test, I instead decided to go rummaging through storage (the irony!) and just find a different wall wart to try out. I eventually found an old Tandy power supply which happened to have the correct voltage, polarity, plug size, and enough amperage to do the job. It seemed far more substantial than the tiny crappy one I had been using before. Plugged in the new power supply, and everything just worked. smile

I suppose if people are really curious I could do some more analysis, but I figure it's not necessary. The fix makes sense too, because if the 5v line supplying the video amplifier is really noisy, the television will just interpret that extra noise as something wrong with the signal, which it was in this case.

Moral of the story: use a good power supply with your Famicom.

I've been working on modding a Famicom (HVC-CPU-07) to have a composite video output using this circuit seen here:

http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod.htm

Thus far I have constructed the circuit properly, and it appears to work... mostly. The final image has "waves" in it, such that the image seems to move from left to right in bands which bend like a sine wave. There are also bands of light and dark moving through the image too. I have triple checked my own wiring and have even made sure that my hookup cable is shielded and so on. I suspect the problem lies in my power supply.

The PSU is a really cheap wall wart I found in my box of spares which happened to have the correct voltage and polarity, but is under-rated in amperage and is probably incredibly noisy, although I have not had the opportunity to check it. Has anyone here done mods like this before? Is it possible this problem is related to my power supply? The symptoms seem indicative of 60hz line noise just based on the sine-wave shape of the defects in the image.

231

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

onapokoya wrote:

I use rechargeables and I tried fresh ones but still got the problem.  So maybe rechargeables don't like the panel.  I'm just going to swap it out or a regular backlight and put the el in something.

It's all about the voltage they put out. Rechargables can "sag" after a while.

I would suggest a CNC-made or 3D printed plastic form, with a very thin veneer molded over the top, if you asked me. Otherwise it will be much too thick.

Mine should be here shortly as well. Would like to point out, orders are shipping from Ukraine, according to tracking information.

June 8: Placed Order
June 12: Order Shipped
June 19: Order reaches New York
???: Order arrives in Minnesota.

I don't think you'll find much in the way of actual tutorials and such for 8-bit sprite design. That's very much a DIY and learn-it-yourself kind of area. When I need to be drawing things for work or for play, I tend to look at other people's work for a long time, study it, maybe even copy it a few times, before I begin my own. Maybe try that?

Ohhhh, that's what he means. Yeah, the one I listed probably won't work then. My bad.

If you're looking for a different mounting arrangement, go on Digikey and look up 16mm coin battery holders. The 1616 is close to the same thickness as the 1612, 1620, and 1632, so they're usually lumped together with just different sized spring arms.

You mean this?

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch … ageSize=25

238

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Theta_Frost wrote:
jefftheworld wrote:

My SC1224 just stopped working, unfortunately. I just got the ST working again (had to replace the floppy drive) and now I've got no screen. It's a 1040STF which means alternative video output is a huge pain, so I may just grab a better ST and ditch this one.

I feel your pain.  My 1040STe has been laying naked on the workbench for a while.  I've just installed a picoPSU which is cool.  Still working on RGB to S-Video encoder going into S-Video to VGA converter, which strangely enough seems like the most successful way others have gotten a clean VGA output.

You checked these out ever? I've not used one, but have contemplated getting one for my Neo Geo some day.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GBS-8220-RGB-CG … 1c2a3389f3

239

(3 replies, posted in Atari)

nitro2k01 wrote:

It doesn't really matter, but I'm always wondering why someone disables comments and ratings on all their videos like that.

LOL

Kitch, do you know if the inverter is electrically noisy? Are there any shileding or placement considerations that need to be made for that reason?