12ianma wrote:

Most is just UV activated as well. You'd know within minutes. I thought about using it before to do the same with a backlight. But I am unsure it would matter much honestly. I'm sure it would help with the front light, I know some about optics and medium to air to medium will for sure cause some reflection/refraction. The idea here is that the constant of each medium is so close (if it's not air but it's clear) that it will refract a negligible amount

Well, I still would like to mess with it, if only because on modern smartphones it seems to be a night and day difference between not using it vs not using it.

12ianma wrote:
arfink wrote:

Oh, I have something much much better in mind.

like that stuff they use to laminate cellphoine screens to the digitizer?

Basically. It's called liquid optically clear adhesive, or LOCA, and from what I can tell, the OEMs making phones for Samsung and Apple use it because it covers a multitude of sins, like wavy or uneven glass. I thought about using LOCA with this as I was reading about the new Kindle Paperwhite frontlight. Someone did a teardown, and there was this thick sticky glue stuff on the frontlight that was able to fill in all the surface channels in the diffuser while remaining optically clear. This means no internal reflection to wash it out. Which is what people are having trouble with here, that's just some really extreme levels of internal reflection. I did some more reading, and it turns out I was right, they were using a UV-cured LOCA for that frontlight, which happens to be gorgeous.

I have no idea if LOCA would work on Kitsch's frontlights or not, or what possible challenges would come up from using it that way, but I figured it was worth mentioning. If nothing else, one could potentially bond the frontlight panel to some kind of smooth flat panel using LOCA to cut down on the glare while still retaining the redirection of the light from the frontlight.

Of course, I've also spent the evening fantasizing about using LOCA with a backlight for the MGB to bond it right onto the glass, that would be sooooo sick.

Mmmmm still fresh. ^_^

Jazzmarazz wrote:

Ahh, like a slide for a microscope. Try clear nail polish. It will harden and keep, but you'll never get it off...

Oh, I have something much much better in mind.

kitsch wrote:
arfink wrote:

Is there anyone here who would be interested in performing a possibly destructive test for the sake of my curiosity? (destructive to the panel, not the Gameboy Color)

I'd like to see what happens if you place the frontlight panel onto a photo or something, with a drop of water between the frontlight and the illuminated surface. I want to know if the water would help reduce washout. If it does reduce washout I think I know of a possible solution.


i got your PM, and its super interesting, just didn't reply yet cause i'm doing stuff around

but i will wink  thanks for that, very interesting though

Hehehe, I hope it works...

Is there anyone here who would be interested in performing a possibly destructive test for the sake of my curiosity? (destructive to the panel, not the Gameboy Color)

I'd like to see what happens if you place the frontlight panel onto a photo or something, with a drop of water between the frontlight and the illuminated surface. I want to know if the water would help reduce washout. If it does reduce washout I think I know of a possible solution.

Wow, they look really nice! big_smile

Say, can we get a picture of a board with its clothes on? wink

89

(135 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Dude, that T102 and the Pasco thing... both so tempting. Of course, I already have one T102 already...

It is a beast, takes tons of abuse, and I used mine for note taking too. I also tried to write a dial-up BBS for it in Basic, which I never got working quite right. I did get it online though, at one point.

Jazz has them, and told me he thinks they look good. smile

Don't use scotch tape for stencils, it's not got the right kind of adhesive. If you want to use tape, use a good quality masking tape, like blue painter's tape or Frogtape.

If you want to cut stencils, you can try vinyl or other thin plastics, and you can attach it by coating the back of the stencil with a spray-on adhesive for the purpose, and then stick that to the gameboy shell. I have done this.

Removing paint is a pain, but if you try to remove it before it's dry you will only increase your pain, in my experience. Harsh solvents will eat the plastic as readily as the paint, so be prepared for lots of sanding and cussing. tongue

If anyone would know what material and what thickness they are, Kitsch should. tongue

I don't know for certain, but I believe that the graphics on the 3DS are being done probably with pad printing, so they have much more control over the colors. Spray paint is seldom transparent, so you will probably not get the same results. I would suggest looking into model paints which you can mix to get the correct tone, and then doing a wash over a stencil (using a brush or sponge or airbrush) to get this effect.

Well, I had to make a few extras to use up the rest of the sheet of plastic, so unless every single person wants just white or just back, I think there should be plenty of each for everyone.

I loled. Bravo.

Heyo everyone! I got the enclosures done, they're mailing to Jazz with as much haste as the Postmaster can muster! There were various delays on my end, including a Christmas laser breakdown disaster that required me to replace the power supply. Also my fiance was in town, and we were doing wedding planning in addition to celebrating the holidays, which kinda made it hard to get stuff done. Mea maxima culpa.

Here are pictures:

These things are crazy shiny, and almost impossible for me to photograph. Sorry if it looks like a potato.