17

(9 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

Ha nice, thanks for sharing that! I love seeing my stickers out in the wild. smile

Can you show the other side? Also, have you tried replacing the barrel power connector? It's a switched connector so if it's effed up it can cut off both battery and external power.

18

(9 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

I've brought a few old Casios back to life, can you post some photos of the power section of the board?

...and I'm assuming you're absolutely certain the two transistors have the same pinout... ...and that you've tried both batteries and a wall wart... smile

19

(10 replies, posted in Tutorials, Mods & How-To's)

That translucent spray sounds really nice.

I did this, and a couple others I can't find pictures of now, with RIT dye. Not recommended, I stopped even attempting this after I melted a few shells. sad

20

(32 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Limiting myself to the realm of chiptune, I've got the 9:39 "Polish Cold War Neon"
https://themineralkingdom.bandcamp.com/ … d-war-neon

Next in line would be the 6:05 "Civil Disobedience is Civil Defense"
https://matthewjosephpayne.bandcamp.com … il-defense

Basically doomy chiptune songs about large groups of people acting against violent political interests.

21

(13 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

AndehX's solution is very likely to work; I've had this happen with weird batteries before.

That contact doesn't "bend" (it's behind the plastic of the shell) so yeah, you'll need to stuff something in there to get them to work.

Ultimately I'm with Danimal - I've used Eneloops for ages and love them. Ultimately you don't want to be at a gig backstage needing to change batteries and you drop your little foil ball and can't find it and can't get your gameboy to turn on and... so yeah, just get some better batteries.

22

(5 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

It's a pain in the butt, but it works, I've done it. I suggest naming all the samples after note values, and putting only one octave in each sample pack.

23

(10 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Hit up me circa 2012.

Keep in mind also that the Color has more powerful processors, so it can handle more simultaneous tables, and other complexities that the DMG can't. Syncing a DMG and a Color is a nice setup.

The Advance has a crap button layout for LSDJ, with the Start and Select buttons in the wrong place. There's a mod for the Advance that physically reassigns the shoulder buttons to start and select instead.

25

(17 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Take off your battery cover, and look through the little hole in the case where the latch holds the battery cover on. You should be able to read your main board version there; if it's 03 or less, there's a weird problem with WAV channel sample playback on those board revisions.

Or dirt in the controls.

Any time you buy vintage electronics, even when they've been gone over by someone with experience, you're taking a chance. Just make sure the price is appropriate for the level of risk and how hard the thing is to get.

This gameboy sounds like its probably just dirty. Either way, they're resilient.

The quality of your soldering looks okay, but there's too much wire exposed at the contact points; it looks like you kept the iron on there a little too long and the coating on the wire melted off. It probably works fine when the gameboy is disassembled but when you close it it may be pressing the wire against some other contact and introducing a constant voltage into the signal which you're hearing as hum.

Basically you need to undo the solder joints, cut the exposed part of the wire down shorter, and redo the solder joints faster - it might help to apply the iron to the contact on the board, then as soon as the solder flows, apply the wire, then remove the iron. This should all take no more than a second or two for each joint, all told. You might find some junk electronics to practice on first before attempting this again!

Good luck! smile

28

(1,621 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Tetris Effect that setup is a delight! I'm always envious of these rig photos with lots of natural light. Always seems like a beautiful and creative space!

29

(36 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

yogi wrote:

I was thinking that Teensyboy didn't act as a USB Host but just as a Device?

Yogi

Oh, dang - you're totally right. Scratch what I said! You'd still need a USB host to make the Teensyboy work.

30

(36 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

USBBoy is just a well made, fancy, Teensyboy, which you can DIY pretty easily and thus have USB MIDI: https://code.google.com/p/noizeinabox/wiki/TeensyBoy

Are you trying to make Eurorack-style control voltage interact directly with LSDJ? You'll need a real circuit to make that happen, but I did read something about someone making a direct connection between a gameboy link port and a modular synth CLOCK signal. This (short) thread may be of some use:

http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/16146 … ggers-etc/

I should note that the stereo/balanced monoprice cable you have probably won't work out too hot, you'd be better off with a mono/unbalanced cable or jack.

Posting this here since it was made with HT1:

My piece "Etude for Contrabass Flute and TI83+ Calculator" is going to be on flutist Meerenai Shim's new album "Pheremone", which is currently available for preorder. Adam T. Davis of Gnarboots did the art. The album is available for preorder now: https://meerenai.bandcamp.com/

She did a really great job of indicating the specific software used for the electronic aspects of each piece, so Houston Tracker got a mention in the full liner notes. smile