IAMERROR, there is so much wrong with your basic premise that I don't even know where to start. You seem to have very little understanding of chiptune and this community. It's scary to think how many people present what we do as "school projects" without even saying anything here.

Your descriptions of what chiptune is and is not do not encompass a single note of any music that I, for one, have made that I call chiptune. Please, for everyone's sake, take our advice and do more research, listen to more music and then reconsider your project.

Glad to be of service. I'm sure that Ape will be able to take care of you from here, he does fantastic work.

GoingHam wrote:

Now I still have a perfectly fine ribbon cable (like shown in first picture) connected to the sliced ribbon cable unit. How difficult would you presume it would be to make this kind of transplant? / Would I even be able to handle it without a big solder mess?

For the record, transplanting those ribbon cables is theoretically possible, but generally not worth the trouble, especially at a beginner's skill level.

now you know

Hey, how's that gameboy working out? big_smile

IAMERROR, it doesn't sound like you've actually solved the problem. Would you take a picture of the cable you're using and post it here?

Yeah, it looks like you've got thrashed ribbon cables on both gameboys. In this photo:

...the third pin from the left looks like a goner, possibly others.

In this photo:

...well, I think you're aware of the problem.

The one I posted second is 110% fucked. The first one I posted could theoretically be fixed by running very thin wires from the board contacts pictured to the relevant pins on the ribbon connector's socket on the CPU PCB. You can use a multimeter or continuity tester to confirm which pins on the ribbon are not connected. You would need to use VERY thin gauge wire (like 30 or so) so it would fit comfortably under the backlight.

However, I must warn you that it doesn't seem like your soldering is up to the task. All of your solder joints are cold joints, and have a decent amount of mess. I would suggest finding something you care less about to sacrifice and practice soldering. You want to wind up with a smooth, shiny pile of solder that neatly covers the available metal surface. Tin your wires first. Breathe, calm down, apply heat until the solder melts completely, apply wire to be soldered, remove heat, don't let the wire move until the solder has completely cooled. Practice practice practice before you start working on the gameboys again. smile

It's also possible that your iron isn't getting hot enough. If you find yourself working hard to press the iron onto the joints you're soldering to get them to melt, then that's probably the case - or you never tinned the tip of your iron.

Alternately, you could pass this to an expert. Myself, Apeshit or Justinthursday could all redo this affordably. Any one of us could probably sell you a new screen PCB as well.

soultron wrote:

Take some photos, decent resolution, focusing on your soldering, and post them here.

920

(44 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

akira^8GB wrote:
kineticturtle wrote:

Wait hold on. Your cart battery died and so you're ditching the console?

I'd say reliability in data storage is a very important concern.

Agreed, but I just always hear about people losing all their data because of battery failures. I use EMS carts exclusively, and have NEVER lost data. I wouldn't leave anything important on my computer without a backup, and the same goes for my LSDJ songs. Data storage reliability is, in part, a human function.

921

(28 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

defiantsystems wrote:

...modding usually makes people nervous about screwing stuff up but it's pretty straight forward and it's not as nerve wracking as people make it out to be. Take your time and be sure  to read over the instructions before installing and follow along.

This is my eternal advice.

922

(44 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Wait hold on. Your cart battery died and so you're ditching the console? Just back up your music next time. Calm down and keep working with what you have!

923

(32 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

I know this can't really happen but... man, what if this were a new instrument type in Pulsar?

924

(32 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

holy balls

I'll certainly TRY to use this for something interesting!

925

(50 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

kitsch: capacitor age perhaps?

926

(163 replies, posted in General Discussion)

e.s.c. wrote:

i guess a lot people hoped that when the scene started expanding more in 2008-2009, the influx of new people would eventually lead to a much greater diversity in the types of music being made with chip, though it almost seems like there is actually LESS now (at least if you go based on a percentage of the whole scene)

Yeah, but there's much more stylistic diversity if you look instead at the range of styles rather than sheer numbers. When you have an art form as easy and cheap to get into as this one, you can't let the majority rule when you do calculations like this.

In discussions like this, it seems like artists really doing something different always get overlooked. Little-scale. Danimal Cannon. Jay Tholen. godinpants. Crashfaster. Awkward Terrible.

927

(50 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

ohhhhhh, straight from the power supply. Sorry, I was confused by his description. I'll redo it on Monday and see how it is! heart

edit: Let me clarify; I got confused because Justin's writeup made it seem like 5v from the capacitor under the monitor was the problem, and taking power from where he took it in his photo was the solution. This makes more sense. I actually looked to the four wires coming off the regulator as a possible source, but couldn't remember which was which (and forgot, as I recall now, that they're actually labeled on the regulator board).

In other words, I think once this has a cohesive installation guide, it's gonna be an awesome, awesome product. wink

928

(50 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I'm pretty sure that proximity interference is not what causes the noise, but rather ground contamination. Also to reiterate - no noise on prosound outputs is my understanding, but I haven't had a chance to prosound mine yet.