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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Apeshit
Topics by Apeshit
Posts found: 401-416 of 1,010
my.Explosion wrote:Well the kit from Kitsch-Bent sits above the plastic housing as well. If we're talking about the same thing, that is.
Anyway, I won't know for sure until maybe next week when my stuff arrives and I can test this thing out. 
No, that's not what I mean. Kitsch's backlights are the same thickness as ours.
I mean the total height of the backlight is lower than the surrounding housing.
Maybe I'm just nitpicking here, but mixing parts actually isn't the best idea. Nonfinite's backlights sit above the LCD's plastic housing, while all other backlights sit below it. So if you use the polarized film from his kit with a thinner backlight, the LCD won't be sitting flush. I'm talking a fraction of a mm here, so maybe it doesn't matter. But I'd still cut a little notch in the corner or cut one side entirely to make it fit better.
my.Explosion wrote: If not I will have a 2x2 inch polarizing sheet soon enough and could try that.
Thanks! 
You'll want to cut it if you mean a square piece, and not the die cut piece I linked to. 2x2" is too big, the LCD won't sit flush.
my.Explosion wrote:@Pale: Well. The film is built in sort of, or at least it came with it attached... No doubt by some adhesive layer. But I sort of thought that one could tear that film off and then just have a loose sheet on top of that instead? Flipped whichever direction.
You can do that, and if it's one of ours, you can even use the stock film, but that might get a bit messy.
Or you can use this piece, which fits as either inverted or normal polarization. http://asmretro.com/diy-gear/polarizati … irectional
It's generally the ribbon cable under the LCD. The solder joints have likely ripped from the cable. Sometimes you can patch them up with solder.
thursdaycustoms wrote:I wonder if the gauge of wire you're using for the cart connector is too thick though.. Seems like it could cause problems.
Nah...It'd only be too thick if he couldn't fit it through the pads. Thicker wires have less resistance. Typically you'll want things to be bigger rather than smaller in electronics. Wires, traces, components etc... For heat reasons, resistance and noise reduction, and other various reasons.
I have one like that, but it's yellow. They were sold a few years back, but are difficult to find nowadays. I believe the start/select buttons were taller, and the other silicone parts were clear. But whoever installed it easily could have just used the original silicone parts.
Found a picture. Had a kitsch screen on it when I bought it, but I think they included a screen cover as well.
It's because of the cart's eeprom size, it's only 2mb.
SketchMan3 wrote:This is a bit off-topic, but how do you guys do the "watermark" in the screen? Does that show through when you've got a game running, or is that a "game" itself?
Yeah, it's a rom. I should specify that because people have been thinking we watermark our backlights with a huge ape logo.
That one was sent to me by a fellow on this forum, I don't recall him name off the top of my head. He hacked an existing rom. The newer ones I use I've made from scratch, there's some guides on how to make them around.
SketchMan3 wrote: Someday I'd like to try dyeing a Gameboy like that, minus the red.
I did that as well. It looked much better than with the red. I kind of wish I kept some pictures of these. Maybe they'll turn up.
It will most certainly preserve the translucency, but XMetals + a clear coat gives better results in my opinion.
Here's rit dye, and I'll try to find the red one I did with XMetals paint.
Actually, I think I lost the pictures. Here's one I found in a google search:
Buying caps can take hours when you have to go through datasheets to make sure the size is right, so I think that's a pretty fair price.
Anyway, that's not a capacitor, it's an inductor. Pretty sure that's epoxy, as Rolf suggested, so it's fine.
I'd advise against rit dying. It's a messy and risky process for lackluster results.
The others don't have fram, and they have low battery capacity, so it's probably not what you're looking for. The infinity cartridges didn't work because he was trying to use a microcontroller for the multiple ram chips. Not enough R&D with that cartridge.
I'm sure you know already, but the derp cartridges have non-volatile ram on one chip stepped down to 3.3v, so there's no additional components for it.
Posts found: 401-416 of 1,010
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by Apeshit
