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it wasn't directed at anyone in particular, i have had a lot of people messaging me saying they are having trouble with their arduino so it was more of a general info thing.

if you wanted true, contsant midi thru then yea you could just wire the input socket to an output socket, its nothing more than power to make the led in the optocoupler flash so thats easy enough to do. if it was something like serial then thats not possible because in and out are in the same socket, but midi is great to work with because you have a socket for each direction.

would you be willing to give up the main board for a good cause? regarless of the condition?

interesting, i wonder if it would be better or worse with the backlight as well.

did you get any distortion? or is it only louder? disabling the internal amp may make a difference (lifting the pins) because the amp is still on and connected to the audio lines meaning power and audio are mixing together. in my pro sound the amp is switched off which isolates it from the pro sound.

still great to hear from another point of view about it great work!

the wire should be soldered to the leg of the chip. you could cut them both with a sharp knife and then solder to what is left, but i lifted them so they can be put back.

the only reason for lifting the pins and soldering to them is to mute the internal speaker when the jack is inserted. it should still work as a pro sound but you will have the internal speaker going at the same time. if you don't care then you could always rip the speaker out and not use it. but i like my internal speaker

are they really? i didn't know that! that would explain it then because all the problems are on the wav channel.

ok i will double check what i have done, but like i said i am pretty sure there is the components needed to protect the CPU and i am pretty sure the sound is over all better than the original, no hissing or buzzing, its crystal clear, its just a slight distortion, which could actually just be the drumkit i used on LSDJ, because all the other channels sound fine.

and again, i want someone else to give it a try, report back, i only did this for fun, i need someone who really knows their stuff when it comes to sound quality to go over and check what i have done.

there is plenty of space to put a couple of SMD resistors and a capacitor on there too, in fact i did try a 100uf SMD electrolytic cap from true ground to audio ground, but this seemed to created more interferance. i really do think that when nintendo tried to make the SP so small, (in some ways its even smaller than the DS internal free space wise) that they had to loose some sound quality in the process, they are a big company producing cheap handhelds for kids, sound quality is not an issue for them.

honest negative coments can be more productive than positive ones

there is two resistors between the audio lines and ground, the points that i took the pro sound from are after these two resistors, i did try directly from the CPU and it had more volume but caused distortion in the screen (and as you said left the CPU vunrable)

there is also a capacitor to ground on the audio ground (ironically the one i had to move to fit the jack) so the components are there, the sound distortion seems to purely be a problem with the CPU from the start, though when using normal carts over the USB carts (tested with tetris and the gameboy camera) the sound is a little bit better,

i think the built in array of noise filters is on the other side of the pre amp, which i chopped out of the loop, though if you plug it in to a decent mixer it should have filter options built in.

the SP is a pain in the ass to work with and in a way i don't like it, its a good unit as standard, and the ability to play all gameboy games and comes with a backlight is very useful, but maybe its guts would be better in a DMG for space, and that retro feel that we all love

anyway, still waiting on other opinions of the pro sound quality,