177

(3 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Yep, highlighted as mentioned. However, if you *didn't* do that yourself (even accidentally) there may be a risk that the file is corrupted.

Just to avoid any confusion. Koji-Kendo has not been banned. That's just their choice of avatar. (An image showing the word "banned".) Also, here's the link to the album showing the mod:

http://imgur.com/a/89vXO

When you rotate the polarizing film 90 degrees you get increased contrast on a backlit screen. Nobody says this aint so, just that it's already a known fact. I will also admit that your tutorial was nicely done. But, I take a scientific approach to things and I'm not, to put it frankly, in the business of stroking people's egos one way or the other. So when you're claiming that you have seen a biverted backlight and yours was better, you may actually be right! Maybe you're using a better LED panel or a better polarizing film material than what you have seen before. But if it's true, it's true for physical reasons and not because you said so. My advice is to try to approach the issue rationally instead of emotionally. You don't need your account deleted because someone disagrees with you on the internet.

Koji-Kendo wrote:

That sounds great and all, but I've seen an inverted backlight and a biverted backlight. This beats them both in contrast, clarity and brightness. But if you guys are that aggravated by a simple title, than let me go ahead and fix that for ya.

Are you saying that if you would put in the inverter chip, the contrast, clarity and brightness would go down from what you have now? If so, would it go up or down from there if you activated the inverted palette mode in LSDj on top of that?

When you invert the screen by rotating the polarizing film, you don't just invert the black and white image, but also the spectrum of the light admittance. In the normal position, the screen has a green tint, and in the inverted position, the screen has a blue tint, or more toward pink as the case is on a DMG. This affects the way it looks using different light sources or lighting methods. This is especially true for a green backlight, as the contrast between the brightest and the darkest shade increases with the inverted polarization.

This isn't really anything new or unexpected per se. LCDs in the early days typically used the green position because it works better in ambient light. I have seen one or two monochrome LCDs in the wild (ie, not on Gameboys) using the inverted position and a white backlight.

Really though, I think what Apeshit was reacting to, and now me, is giving it a fancy name. You could give it a name that is simply descriptive, for example "Backlit screen with inverted polarization".

clairenb wrote:

Cool, if you wanted to un-invert it you could just rotate the polariser 90 degrees

The point of rotating it in the first place is to increase the contrast when using a backlight. But that has the side effect of also inverting the screen. The point of "biverting", ie inverting the signal that goes into the display, is to restore the inversion from rotating the film.

That's a Fortune/Bitman clone with a different labeling. Interesting however how they also tried to make a variant which tried to look genuine.

Would you say A-ha - Take On Me has this musical quality?

I could do it for you.

186

(3 replies, posted in General Discussion)

The previous wave of spam was just regular advertising for fake university diplomas. This wave of spam was unrelated to either that or China in general.

187

(14 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

irrlichtproject wrote:

(some documents claim duty cycle is never reset, but as far as I can tell it is).

This is still true. What's referred to is that the phase isn't reset to 0. What is reset when restarting the channel is the phase accumulator, so the phase is only reset back to the previous (iirc) 1/16 of a complete cycle.

irrlichtproject wrote:

FF17 (PU2 volume) is not used (just mentioning for clarity, not sure that was what you were implying).

Yeah, sorry I did mean FF25.

irrlichtproject wrote:

Edit: Btw glad to hear Gambatte is doing the trick. I only tested with an old version, which didn't work so well. Another one that does work is mednafen - surprisingly, as it's not even a dedicated Gameboy emulator.

The real problem here actually isn't as much GB emulation accuracy, as audio oversampling.

188

(14 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

This is NOT what I was expecting! The predictable thing would have been to use bit 3/7 of FF24 to create a square wave and the timer to generate frequencies. Instead, you are using using channel 2 to generate a DC offset and abusing its volume control to generate two interleaved PCM channels, as far as I could gather from a quick look at the code at least. Not necessarily what I would call a 5th channel, but really innovative!

As far as emulation is concerned, Gambatte does a good job of emulating it, if sound resampler is set to high quality (polyphase FIR) or higher, which it should be by default I believe.

189

(14 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Posted on March 32nd. Definitely real.

It's usually just called a (linear) polarizer or polarizing film. Are you interested in the chemical composition or do you just want to buy some? I wouldn't hold my breath for finding it locally, but it's readily available on line. First Google result for example: http://www.polarization.com/polarshop/
If you are on a zero budget or wish to have some fun, try doing a teardown of an old/broken monitor. You will find a sheet of polarizing film as one of the layers in the LCD panel.

MaxDolensky wrote:

MultiROM menu too? smile

How do you suppose that would work on 32k?

192

(2 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

The DMG is using a switched mode power supply which works from pretty much anything from 4V-9V as long as it can provide enough current. 5V will work fine. 5V is not unusual for a set of slightly discharged batteries anyway.