In case my opinion is wanted, this should be your setup for this: Gamecube+GBA player and capture that video stream with a capture card/USB device to your computer. Then perhaps record a stream of your fingers on the controller. But that leaves you with the issue of synching the video streams. Or, perhaps even better, contact Oliver and ask him if he can he provide you with a version of NL that shows the buttons that are currently pressed overlaid on the screen so you can show a pure video stream of NL.

370

(46 replies, posted in General Discussion)

I think that's a good time to stop this discussion.

371

(46 replies, posted in General Discussion)

dsv101 wrote:

You gotta admit, those videos look hilarious, like how could no one tell he is hitting random keys. But yeah, that sucks for the ladies... The worst kind of person/thing/animal/species makes the females infected.

372

(46 replies, posted in General Discussion)

There are other pics of him, like this one. Definitely him.

I once had a post about his chiptune theft adventures. I unpublished it after he seemed to honestly want to make his own music and be a part of the community, but now I'm considering whether that good will is lost and I should republish the post.

jefftheworld wrote:

You can always just get a USB parallel port.

Nope. Those won't work with Transferers.

374

(2 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

A headphone output is an unbalanced circuit. Using a T or a Π type attenuator would likely be way overkill for your application. The point of those topologies is to match the impedance of both the input and the output in order to avoid signal reflections, which is mostly a problem for high frequency transmission lines.

You should use an L type attenuator, that is a two resistor voltage divider, but you may be able to get away with just a series resistor. The downside of just putting a resistor in series is that the attenuation will vary with the impedance of the headphones, if you have multiple different pairs of headphones that you wish to use with the same soundcard. Just shooting from the hip, you should aim for a resistor value that is slightly lower than the headphone impedance. Lower value = less attenuation. This could be done externally without modifying the soundcard, if you get a siutable stereo plug, and jack that you can use for an adapter. Standard 1/4 W resistors should be sufficient for this task.

Another option is to modify the soundcard internally. There will probably be a headphone amplifier. If you can attenuate the signal before going into the amplifier, you could apply a constant attenuation regardless of the headphone impedance. I could probably help you with that, but then I would need something to go on, preferably pictures of the internals of the soundcard around that area of the board.

375

(11 replies, posted in General Discussion)

What exactly do you mean by .hex? Intel hex format? It also contains address data, which you would need to add as well.

See this thread, and especially my posts: http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/14290 … us-or-not/

The bottom line is, it's likely an automated copyright request that matched your song based on the notes in it, which likely were similar enough in pitch and volume curve to look like the original song.

377

(37 replies, posted in Commodore Computers)

The Silph Scope wrote:

My personal beef with it is that it's nonfree software. That being said, I still use it on occasion.
But I would be behind it 100% if it were GPL'd or something.

If it was 100% GPL (as opposed to, say, parts being LGPL) you may need to share the source song file for your music, if the exported module contains playback code. Arguably, the whole module would then become a derivative work of the GPL'd playback code.

Crashmast wrote:

I'm not sure why you'd want a Power Glove, because it's kind of a piece of shit and doesn't work very well, as stated above, but it's your decision and I'm not here to ask questions.

(Mumbles something about looking cool on stage.)

What if I told you, that your image is

( •_•)

( •_•)>⌐■-■

(⌐■_■)

fudged.

YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH

If you stop the video at just the right frame and look carefully, you can see the hidden text, which subtly hints that that gentleman is indeed Christopher Poole, also known as "moot". It's a conspiracy!

381

(3 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

You're correct that this used to work differently. The reason for the change as far as I remember was so you could use the detune feature to detune agy combination of pu1, pu2 and wav against each other. Before this change, you couldn't detune pu1 an wav against each other. You can of course create another instrument where you set finetune to 0 and play on either pu1 or pu2 to get less detuning.

The detune happens in the Gameboy sound chip\s internal values, which means it's neither measured in cents nor Hz. The frequency, given a certain GB pitch value, is givne by the formula:

f = 131072/(2048-x)

As you go higher in pitch, there are fewer frequency steps, and the error compared to the desired note increases.

Here's a handy table:
http://www.devrs.com/gb/files/sndtab.html

Let\s look at a couple of notes to demonstrate this.
A-3, supposed to be 110 Hz. The closest GB value is value 854. f = 131072/(2048-854) = 109.78 Hz
The next value above it is 855, giving f = 131072/(2048-855) = 109.87 Hz (So actually, it turns out that the table is inaccurate, but that doesn't matter. This is not the note table LSDj is using as far as I'm aware. And I'm just interested in approximately how big a one step difference is in that general range.)
This means that for A-3, the slowest beat frequency you can get between two detuned notes is 109.87-109.78 = 0.09 Hz.

A-5, supposed to be 440 Hz. The closest GB value is value 1750. f = 131072/(2048-1750) = 439.84 Hz
The next value above it is 1751, giving f = 131072/(2048-1751) = 441.32 Hz
This means that for A-3, the slowest beat frequency you can get between two detuned notes is 109.87-109.78 = 1.48 Hz.

A-7, supposed to be 1760 Hz. The closest GB value is value 1750. f = 131072/(2048-1974) = 1771.24 Hz
The next value above it is 1975, giving f = 131072/(2048-1975) = 1795.51 Hz
This means that for A-3, the slowest beat frequency you can get between two detuned notes is 24.27 Hz.

Firstly, you can't link pictures directly from your hard drive. Upload them for example to http://imgur.com/

Secondly, use img tags.
[ img]ht tp://i.imgur.com/someimage.jpg[/ img]

Of course, remove the three spaces in the example, which I added to prevent the forum from interpreting the code.

If you're willing to hack up a link cable, you can connect ground to ground, and the link cable's signal out to the sync input. Then engage the Nanoloop sync mode in LSDj. With standard setting this should give you 12 pulses per quarter note, or 3 pulses per step. Depending on what the device can accept in terms of synch signals, this may be sufficient.

It should be possible. You could use an existing cartridge, but apart from GB Camera, the games listed above are super rare.
for inspiration on how to convert a game cartridge to a flash cartridge, see:
http://www.reinerziegler.de/readplus.htm
For their suggested methods, you would take a PLCC package flash chip and place at an angle. There might be flash chips for sale that are plane drop-in replacements, though.

As for SRAM, you need to find a suitable SRAM chip that is still for sale. It needs to be a 5V, low power, 128k x8 SRAM chip. Here's a random one I found and it seems to be for sale, still:
http://www.tme.eu/en/Document/add608bde … C1008L.PDF
If you get the right package, you should be able to solder it onto the footprint of the GM76C256CLL chip used on MBC5 cartridges, and get it working with just a couple of mod wires.

But you do need to make sure that the donor cart is an MBC5 game, or you won't be able to do the RAM expansion. (MBC5 is the memory controller chip in the cartridge.) That is, cartridge type ROM+MBC5+RAM+Battery.