Puke_Flytalker wrote:

yea i aint trying to buy shit that is board only ill break it or short it out in like 2 seconds... and the snes one i was looking at was 140 for the same type of kit

oh yea and if you dont want a box to protect the $93.00 cart you just bought

dude like im not gonna lie if i was a rich person i would buy 2 of each from stoneagegamer with all the bells and whistles but the fact is even if i just wanted to buy the $93.00 thats how much money i spend on food for the month..

Still not sure where you're getting $140 from. Stoneagegamer has always been a rip off (this is subjective, I'm not interested in their bells and whistles), and all they do is resell after buying in bulk off of retrogate.

Buying board only is economical, and if you have the tools, making your own shell (sd card cutout... maybe usb port on some everdrives) is fairly simple. No need to worry about shorting anything unless you're shuffling around on a carpet.

kineticturtle wrote:

Awesome! Looks like fantastic work as always from krikzz.

But - Krikzz carts are always in short supply as it is, so we have little reason to expect differently from this. I'll save my excitement for when I see a ship date and price point.

Krikzz carts are never in short supply, unless you think the only way to order them is from stoneagegamer. Hint, order direct from Krikzz's website at retrogate.com. There's periods of time where his stuff is "out of stock" but that's mostly because he ran out of parts to make the carts.

Puke_Flytalker wrote:

it is what it is.. $140 for a cart is kinda crazy tho.. just sayain

Where's the $140 number coming from? Are we talking about the GB Everdrive? On his forums, krikzz mentioned that the card would be about the same price as the Everdrive MD (not to be confused with the Mega Everdrive... while they're both for the megadrive/genesis, they are built differently, and the price represents that). And the MD costs $78, and $60 if ordering 10 or more.

Alpine wrote:
plc268 wrote:

If possible, I'd like to see some of the games that got fan translations or games that got colored for the GBC put on a cart.

If that's possible, I'll definitely put some money down.

you'd need to have a hard copy of the "w/e language it was released in" cart to prove that you're aloud to.

Understandable, and not a big deal. I already own all the super famicom games that I have repros of for the snes.

If possible, I'd like to see some of the games that got fan translations or games that got colored for the GBC put on a cart.

If that's possible, I'll definitely put some money down.

Alright, thanks for the advice guys. I'll try it again soon, but next time I'll do the screen first before recapping it , haha.

nerdsome wrote:

Did you get all the stick residue off of that corner of the LCD?

I'm pretty sure I did. I'm taking a razor blade to the screen right now to see if there's anything remaining, and it's smooth.

It looks like I must've gotten a little rough removing the stuff from the back of the screen. When I put pressure on that area, the discoloration spreads like on a normal busted lcd.

Looks like I'll be recapping another board. Oh well.

Oh wow, I feel stupid. I put the damn thing in backwards

but the bottom right corner is still messed up. I'm guess I didn't get everything peeled off that corner? And it looks like I'll have to take some rubbing alcohol to those dots.

Well, I just took a picture of it, and when I had the flash on, I realized I can still see the screen.

Am I missing a step or something?

Anyway, here are the pics:

Flash off:

Flash on:

Well, I seem to have botched my first attempt at backlighting a dmg screen. It appears that in the process of removing the old polarization film, I also removed another layer of the glass that I shouldn't have. I don't know, all I know, is that there's a slight rainbow effect on the bottom right corner of the screen. Regardless, all I get when turning on the screen is white dots.

So, I'm wanting to attempt it again, but I already went through the trouble of recapping the board, and would rather not do it again. So is it feasible to swap the screens? I'm guessing it's not... but I am handy with a soldering iron.

DogTag wrote:

I see... well that's a shame, I'd like to keep as much plastic as possible. Let's see what plc268 have to say about cutting the metal guide...

Well, the metal guide is just that, a guide. There's one led at the beginning of the guide (where the ribbon is), and it  shines down the guide. Cutting it would not be detrimental to the operation of the light.

DogTag wrote:

Sorry for putting this up again, but now I've found a nice tool to cut the frontlight and I've come up with another question: Did you just cut the frontlight or the metallic frame connected to the ribbon cable as well? I don't think it'll work if I cut the metallic part, but I want to be sure.

The metal guide isn't that thick, so you can easily cut it with a pair of wire cutters or pliers.

12

(7 replies, posted in Trading Post)

kineticturtle wrote:

While we're at it, this is the nicest try-wing I've ever used. Costs more than some gameboys, but if you do a lot of modding, it's nice.

http://www.amazon.com/Moody-Chromium-Tr … B00361ERDG

Didn't realize Moody made a triwing as well. I have their screw extractor set, and it's literally the best set of small screwdrivers I've ever had.

Woah... those are gorgeous.

Do you happen to have any pics with the cases together with matching buttons and screen cover?

Telerophon wrote:

Also, you can apparently still get Afterburner kits. I remember those being a thing circa 2002; that was a custom frontlighting system for the original GBA.

I'm not sure how well it worked, but it's another way to frontlight a classic AGB-001.

The problem is, is that they're nearly impossible to find now. Besides, if you're going the frontlight route, you're better off ripping the light guide out of a gbasp instead, which would be significantly easier to source than an Afterburner kit.

Because trust me, I tried. It was actually how I stumbled on the backlighting, was by searching how to find an afterburner kit, and someone linked a chinese youtube link of the guy testing out his backlit gba.

Oh, I also forgot to mention, there are two different models of the original gba, believe it or not. One has a 32 pin connector for the LCD, and the other has a 40 pin connector. You need the GBA with a 40 pin connector.

Luckily, you don't need to rip apart the GBA to find out if you have one with a 40 pin connector.

Take a look at this image here. The one on the left has a 32 pin connector, the one on the right has a 40 pin

There is still some variation on that number though, as the one I successfully modded says 03 5-2.

I registered here, just to post this.

You can in fact have a backlit original GBA. It involves transplanting the LCD from an AGS-101 GBA SP into the original GBA. The only problem, is that the cable on the backlit screen originates from the bottom, and the cable from the the original GBA originates from the top. Well, some guy in China created an extension for this (you do have to solder 1 wire that powers the actual backlight). He also sells the screen and completed GBAs as well. I modded mine myself, and thought others might enjoy the same info. Also, the mod requires some trimming of the front plastic shell, as the gba  sp screen doesn't fit. The screen is the same dimension, but there's more circuit board and metal around it.

The site you order from is in chinese. I don't speak a lick of chinese, but I was able to order via a broker site called zarmark.com. How that site works, is that you tell them what you want, you pay them (plus a few bucks in fees), and they get the item shipped to their own address, and then they ship it to you. All told, I paid ~$50USD.

The cable: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14045909056  115 yuan ~= $18 USD
The screen: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=16536976988 150 yuan ~= $24 USD
Completed system:  http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=15953144032 400 yuan ~= $64 USD

Here's a pic of metroid fusion running on my backlit gba:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8456/8069 … 745b_c.jpg

Hope any of this helps.