81

(55 replies, posted in LittleGPTracker)

mods, mods, and more mods. i say thumbs up to the prospect.

82

(55 replies, posted in LittleGPTracker)

curious if there would be any reason why piggy would fail to run on rasbian, the raspberry pi optimized build of debian linux. I think it'd be pretty rad to build a dedicated piggy tracker R-pi. What with the customization options and ability to add components to the Rpi, it could turn out pretty rad. and cheaper than a dingoo/caanoo/psp.

i've been waiting for right reason to get a rasberry pi, and now i think i've found it. anxiously awaiting this.

Maybe he's dead? Or very sick? Or homeless? They don't pay teachers very well in the U.S., can't be much different in the U.K.

that soundtest tune is pretty boss.

86

(9 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

apeshit's backlights have 4 LEDs! Super bright! I think that with all current model backlights (or most) that you have to clip some of the white plastic frame that holds the LCD screen in place. if you don't clip it for the wires to run down to the pcb, the gameboy shell will bulge. This happened to me (or some variation on it) and it caused my screen lens to pop up. bogus.

I've only been soldering for a couple months now. I strongly suggest giving it a try. If you follow some tutorials or read up on it, then actually get your hands on it, you'll get over feeling hesitant. If you haven't done any solder mods, try a DMG prosound or backlight mod. The EMS cart to stock DMG case is also an easy solder mod, but includes soldering to very small solder points, so.. maybe a little more advanced by that merit.

i recently did a blue and black set up to match my DMGs. They came out great. It seems that the pcb for the EMS carts sit a little thicker in an original cartridge case. whether or not thats true, I had to use a razor blade and etch away at some of the frame around where I cut the USB slot so it closed flat. You'll see when you're trying to fit it together that it bulges a bit around the USB slot. Timbob had posted a pic of one job, rewiring some parts. My advice is to be as observant as possible of where things are soldered down (take pics if needed) and be confident. Desolder the bulky components, wire them down to the center of the pcb where there is more room, hot glue/electrical tape them down, and you're good to go. Sanding to fit the battery holder can work, but if you're feeling saucy, remove the battery holder and solder the battery down. Don't solder directly to the battery (explosion/caustic burn warning), but use the tabs included in the battery holder, and tape it together. Wire to the original solder points, or ground the battery to the big solder blob next to the USB port. No pics of mine because I don't want to open them if I don't have to.. but they work like a champ. Last suggestion - back up those saves.

@Timbob - I looked high and low online for aftermarket catridges like your green 150-in-1 cart, but couldn't find any. Any suggestions or resources on finding carts like that? It looks great.

I removed some of the plastic frame where the LCD sits on the front shell, and cut down the plastic sheet of the frontlight to fit in a horizontal arrangement. It looked great, and was plenty bright, but i followed some tutorials that suggested running a fingernail across the frontlight plastic to determine which side is the grooved side so that you dont get fingernails on it, and it ended up scratching it, lame!

if your frontlight is dark, it sounds like what was wrong with mine. did you clean it in any way? the plastic from the frontlight layer of the SP's screen seems really delicate, like solvents that work on the gameboy's shell and screen lens for cleaning absolutely eat away at the grooved film on the frontlight. really frustrating.

Frontlit my CGB successfully, was changing gameboy's shell and took a moment to clean some fingerprints from the SP's frontlight component, and must have done something horrible to it, its broken now. I think the film with the grooves on it is very delicate, and even a weaker rubbing alcohol hurt it. Tried scotch/packing tape to remove prints, to no avail.

So.. here I am needing another frontlight component, but not wanting to throw 20-30 bucks at an SP on ebay. Even the "as is" and "parts" SPs for sale are spendy. Anyone have access to some broken AGS-001 systems that would sell me one? If so, let me know what price point you have in mind, or throw out some other options (trade, etc). I don't have much on hand for trades, as I've used most of my cool stuff as trade items to get the cool stuff I want to keep.

time to open'r'up and take a peek.

an internal prosound which never caused overheating on its own before backlighting it.

DMG works just fine, but apparently I never ran it long enough to find out that it overheats if played for a while. I imagine this has something to do with unregulated powersourcing for the backlight, though I used the same solder points for the v3 indicated in the manual pdf. DMG overheats at the same place as in this thread: http://forum.modretro.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=9743 which happened to be the only overheating DMG discussion I could find.

alternate solder points for the backlight? unfortunately I already clipped the wires to size, they reach just under the lower LCD ribbon cable. One broke off during installation and I resoldered it easily, so maybe I have to do that again to make this work.

Epic Elevator Music by thebitman. listened to it on repeat during midterms.

right on. i sortof envision this being the last track on a release, so I should do some EQ on it, or just cut the instrument volume at the end. noted!

3/4 time LSDJ groove. check it

https://soundcloud.com/8bitdad/surprise … eant-to-be