yeah, i'd really love a code to test this out as well if you've got another!  looks pretty cool

it really may help to have some guiding principle though because its a huge world in electronics, so if you don't know specifics about what you'd like to learn, and just want to learn general things, something like an arduino may be up your alley,

its a great way to get into programming and hardware, and there are a shit ton of tutorials out there, and a very warm/large community.

arduino.cc, they're pretty cheap and you can use them as the core of your electronics journey and reap some awesome benefits in the end...

check out the tutorials on that site too, they tell you step-by-step what to do, what parts to get, and what these parts are (and in many cases, what they 'do' in your circuit)

12ianma wrote:

The best book, google. Seriously. It's free and can answer extremely specific things. Wikipedia actually has good articles about most components.

yeah, this.  it sound like sarcastic advise, but its the best source! 

there are tutorials to do certain tasks everywhere, depending on what you want to learn

also, if you've got a community college around, check out the courses offered a lot of them have classes on some entry-level things, avoid the high-voltage classes, they don't apply to you (for the a/c mechanics and stuff).

if you don't have a strong match/science background, there are other more informal ways to learn outside of school, the internet is the best place just wandering around.  type in your question and go!

1,668

(23 replies, posted in Trading Post)

Theta_Frost wrote:

Lead free in my experience has sucked.  But Kester's new K100LD is working really well for me, feels just like the leaded Kester I was using and it isn't super expensive.  +1

thanks for the tip wink  been pretty disappointed with most lead-free i've tried

1,669

(23 replies, posted in Trading Post)

yep, the older parts weren't relevant to the lead-free concern, the only new thing was the assembly.  at least as far as what the manufacturer has control over

there was an exemption for parts in market prior to the implementation of the RoHS leg. in the EU.  (which wiki tells me was july 1st, 2006)

1,670

(23 replies, posted in Trading Post)

i *think* the lead-free bit was also in response to exportation concerns to the EU (possibly elsewhere).  its been so long ago now, that aspect came up in conversation but i don't know if it was the reasoning.

1,671

(9 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

you can go red to green, the green may not be as bright as you'd like.  i don't mess with mgbs too often, but the only variable which you're changing is the LED (and green LEDs are typically rated requiring lesser resistance than red LEDs)  so you can do a straight swap fine, if they chose a resistor with a value specific to that LED (its ratings), then the worst result you should get is a slightly dimmed green LED.

edit -- its more important to worry when you go from a blue/green/white LED to a red/yellow/orange one, the latter (generally speaking) are rated for a lower voltage so going the direction you are going will most likely give you just a slightly dimmed LED, or quite dim depending

1,672

(8 replies, posted in Sega)

would be pretty cool if that were a midi port though...

they are both DIN connectors, look similar.  its an easy mistake, don't be embarrassed wink

via trash80 on the other thread about this:

trash80 wrote:

It's a percentage based on bookmarks and comments and is relative to the number of views the item has received.
1 comment, 5 views = good.
1 comment, 100 views = bad.

and, closing this thread wink

1,674

(30 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

neilbaldwin wrote:

a 'keep this pattern playing' control on a per-voice basis

just wanted to voice my support for this

1,675

(30 replies, posted in Nintendo Consoles)

oh, thats a clever fix, awesome.  can't wait to try this out!

1,676

(13 replies, posted in Releases)

perfect for a stress-filled workday, thanks so much!

1,677

(9 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

12ianma wrote:

Edit: I hate you auto correct

auto correct is the worst invention.....  i hate it too!

1,678

(9 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

the resistor in question is the one marked "R1", its right above the LED on the PCB,

google "LED resistor calculator," and you'll find tools where you can enter in the specs of your LED, with a 5V forward voltage, and figure out the resistor you'll need without having to think about math at all!

swap out the LED, pay attention to the polarity when you remove the one in there (if memory serves, ground is the lower hole), replace the resistor with the value you need for the LED you used, thats it!

when you pick out your LED, look at its datasheet, you'll find all the info on its operating parameters... 

but, a quick start is on colors red, orange, and yellow use a 220ohm resistor, on blue, green, white use 150ohm (am i forgetting an obvious color?)

yeahhhhh, i thought about changing them after the fact, but thats how it usually is for me too!  glad someone else noticed them wink

yep, correct.  the only 'editing' i did to the pic (almost all, for that matter) was an auto white balance, and cropping, just consider that the surrounding light is a tube light directly above where that pic is cropped off.