(next are cases, and a never-before-seen thing, i don't even think i let it slip once...  well maybe once.  its a complete surprise.  then, if i can pull it off, another huge one to follow wink     

... cryptic ...

and the print-your-own screen covers...

man.  the list just doesn't end.  just soooo much fun stuff to tackle.  ever so slowly without kickstarter too tongue

the el kits i'm very glad to have finished.  its been like an annoying scratch in a way.

i have two samples of the new cases in-hand now to review before the mold is hardened (i'll be making a couple very small changes).  i'll get some pics up soon, they've turned out really nice.  after this, when the mold is done, there will be a small test batch and these will be up for public sale (apart from the handful of people which know to expect one, who i'll get in touch with myself apart from that batch).  the test batch is going to be in the classic light grey dmg color, at least thats the plan.  light grey takes pigment, not sure i'm up for that expense for a small batch just yet.  if not, white.  i'm doing a run of dmg buttons in the light grey too, and they are supposed to time it up to use the same batch of plastic, but with revisions happening now not sure it will happen like that...

i've also thought about moving away from ABS plastic and using PP.  if anyone has any thoughts on plastic types they'd like me to explore for cases/buttons, please let me know.  i can't do them in celluloid, i've already tried this hmm  i was going to do some faux turtle shell stuff for giggles

2,210

(1,485 replies, posted in Trading Post)

QueenOfTulips wrote:

Yeah. I use AKAIO (officially supported 3rd party firmware, iirc), and it has updates to bypass the DSi check thing. This includes the DSi XL

thanks, good to know!  all the info i could find online indicated these would be fine, its nice to have it confirmed by someone who's done it...  i didn't want to say something i wasn't positive about wink

Vile wrote:

Any chance of doing a pre-order for these? Also, any idea of price range?

no pre-orders (don't do them really).  i'm putting the kits together right now, i'm hoping to have them ready in a few days (along with the documentation, which i'm going to have ready when these go live rather than delayed like i always do, and always seem to piss someone off doing it)

the cost: not exactly sure.  i have to work it out again and recheck my numbers (and make sure prices for parts haven't changed a lot or something since I bought these).

edit:  also BIG THANKS to justinthursday for doing a review of them and a test run for me!  very grateful to him for the advice he's brought to the table on this...

colors are white.  for the moment...  the way you change colors with EL tech is to just add a piece of colored plastic sheet over the light source.  the color film over theater lights.  you *can* adjust the wavelength of the light coming from the panel by changing elements of the AC, but its not enough to get anything near a spectrum of color.  its more like shifting blue-white light, to red-white light. 

so, sometime down the road I'll do sheets of color film, it'd be super easy to install after-the-fact.  some colors look like crap.  still working that out.  but, ftm, white.

(just for clarity)

"powering up the board {{ WITHOUT THE EL PANEL CONNECTED }} can ruin the IC"  (technically yes, I have yet to do this with the latest PCB revision despite trying very hard)

"I soldered it to the the cap on the front board but it was very noisy when no music was playing. Kitsch informed me that it should sound fine when hooking up right to the power board"  (the hookup points should be right from the power converter PCB.  there is always an electrical hum with EL tech, this will never go away (GBL, for example.  even watches with EL backlights have it hmm ). its isolated from the audio output through a prosound jack when its hooked up to the power board however)

the power board also creates the negative voltage needed for LCD contrast.  without it, you have no contrast in the LCD...

you can hook up a power LED anywhere on the board, you just need to find ground and the regulated 5V (if you have a multimeter it helps).  otherwise, there are some pics floating around which have 5V places and GND marked... 

then, you need a resistor to limit the current based on the LED type you are using.

google "LED resistor calculator" and you can find some nice sites where you just enter in the info for your LED, and it will tell you which resistor to use.  5V will burn out an LED otherwise, unless its the kind with internally installed resistors rated for that voltage (more common rated for 12V)

hope that helps!

2,215

(13 replies, posted in Circuit Bending)

i have the original stribe, built.  you should build yours!  there is a mod to make it 8 stribe1 units as well.  a lot of fun...

(and a stribe shirt, still one of my favs)

you'll almost assuredly leave bubbles or dust underneath the front polarizer when you install it, as its adhesive backed.  its like trying to install a scratch protector on a cell phone or something...  but the material isn't as friendly.  those are the issues i've had at least.

2,217

(1 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

if you have a multimeter and a gba or dmg:  plug the cable into your console and turn it on.  look up on interwebs which pins on the end of the link cable are ground and voltage, and then with your multimeter check and see if you read anything.  most multimeters have the somewhat-sharp probe deals, you should be able to check without an issue. 

if you don't read anything, the 5V probably wasn't wired

apart from this, or someone being familiar with this cable type already, you'll prolly have to cut it open to check if 5V is wired.

however, even if it isn't, the mod is achievable you just need to supply the keyboard power otherwise the key presses aren't recognized

oh wow.  amazing!  nice work!

2,219

(23 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

google "InfoGenius Systems - Spell Checker and Calculator"

i'd link you but i'm almost positive its against site policy to link to rom sites wink

kitsch wrote:

spring cleaning!

i came across a few AceKard 2i carts, price is $20 a piece.  I won't stock these, I just ended up with a bulk a while ago and never got rid of them...

IMPORTANT!!!  please add the AceKard AND shipping you wish from the SAME product link here: http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/utilities

so, if you want a AceKard 2i, please add it AND the shipping you'd like to your basket for checkout.  once these are gone, they're gone. 

these are real AceKards, made by acekard, I got them a while ago.  they're good carts, compatible up to DSi.

features (quoted from box):
-- perfect compatibility.  no need to convert, no need to flash!
-- save file is written directly to MicroSD card.  no need to manually select save file size, no data loss.
-- automatic DLDI patching.  run homebrew programs without converting.
-- support soft-reset, download play and WiFi gaming!
-- support SDHC MicroSD card.  virtually unlimited storage size!
-- support any brand MicroSD, with no slowdown!
-- support Action Replay cheats.  Built-in Editor!
-- lowpower consumption for longer operational time!

thanks for your time...

there are a few of these left!  not many.

KeFF wrote:

I would so much like to get my hands on one of these. Seems like super awesome stuff!

yes!

2,222

(16 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

Krubbz wrote:

How about something by these guys?  http://www.atomosynth.com/

i got one of the mochika units when atomosynth was first around.  not bad product, very simple design though. compared to the others above, its not nearly as fully-featured.  although, it was easy to hack to get it to run off +/- 15V wink

2,223

(12 replies, posted in Releases)

thoroughly enjoying this album

not sure explicitly, the listed support are these: DSi, DSL, IDSL, DS and IDS

i don't think it does the XL, because acekard came out with a later version specifically for the XL and 3DS.  i got these right when the DSi first came out