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ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by kitsch
I would also like to mention that the electrolytic caps on the front board can effect the LCD. Replacing them at this point could help.
since whatever that effect is called fixed a lot by this
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/usb-boy
THESE GO ON SALE IN ~1 HOUR!
NOON IN NEW YORK! THAT'S WHEN!!!!!
from the newsletter
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hey everybody!
thursday customs has taken the teensyboy project and put together a great looking bit of gear called the USB-boy! very happy to have been able to be involved in this project, they'll have white versions and we'll have matte black versions of this product.
check them out: http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/usb-boy
they go on sale tomorrow at 12:00 ET, which is noon/lunch in New York City. if you want to be sure you've got the right time, check out this link: http://bit.ly/1g3sv65
these will go fast most likely.
in other news! want to help out someone in the chipmusic community? our very own andaruGO is currently sitting in first place in moogfest's amplification society contest. if he holds on to first until the contest ends, he'll win a sub phatty from moog music! rumor has it the synth will find its way to BRKfest if he wins, we can all gawk then... 
just clicking this link will get him points: sot.ag/2ksRJ/
if you sign up yourself from there, like his comments on facebook (and tons of other things), he'll get more points. its a close race between 2nd and 1st, so let's help out someone in this community (and its so easy!)
lastly, we've gotten these new products since the last newsletter. some sold out before we sent out this newsletter, but they will be restocked shortly:
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/4- … eld-legend
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/kenobit-kenobit-lp
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/cu … w-nesmod-1
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/cu … w-nesmod-2
that's it! hope you're doing well, and keep chipping!
matt
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thanks for looking!
tried them (there are glass GBA screens out there which a lot of gamers like, and i just copied those basically). i have no intact samples now.
well... the downsides outweighed the pros basically. they looked really nice (they were just clear to test, no graphic), but when it comes down to it most people are pretty utilitarian and don't want to treat something they're using heavily like a museum piece. its just more practical, all around, to go the standard route (imo).
perhaps revisiting this is worth it though, there is gorilla glass and such now which might be more readily available. i had those samples made.... its got to be at least 3 years or 4 ago now... and i'm sure a lot of thats changed since tablet glass tech developing more. or i should ignore this thread and wrap up the stuff i've already got going on haha
i've got other vinyl in the shop now too, and more Kenobit LPs are on the way! those went unusually fast
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/me … eeper-bird
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/r10t33r-step-it-up
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/cr … es-shotgun
(just noticed one of these in your pic)
If you do a bit of searching through this site and via google, you'll find a wealth of information.
My brain is still asleep and I'm having trouble giving you an answer.
he's right. this is good for google,
something like 'midi thru circuit' should turn up what you need.
might help: http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electron … hp?id=1250
a problem member in that thread has since left it seems, so i don't think there will be such an issue for derailment this time,
since you pointed out this is a dupe thread to another, and there are no posts here yet, i'm going to just go ahead and close this one and we'll try the other and hope the issue has resolved itself. criticism is always fair, its not as if it were an invalid point, but you're right it did tend to get a little immature. but, like i said, i bet that won't be so much a problem now in that thread.
feel free to bump the other thread
replying to the email to reply to PM would be grand
i'm not personally really in for the auto-delete stuff. who's to know that the oldest message in someone's inbox isn't the most important? and, that its still there because they are 'saving' it?
increasing message # allotment would be cool
closed
closing this thread
pictures would help a lot,
did you let the alcohol dry completely before putting in the backlight? it might be the surface tension (or whatever) causing the two pieces to hold together isn't letting the rest evaporate
also, black blobs on the screen might be an indication you cracked it. so, pictures would help a lot
it seems like a lot of people are mixing the plastics and silicone buttons into their own unique sort of combination. a couple people got in touch and did the exact opposite from you (silicone A/B, plastic dpad). i can play with the button force whenever a batch is made somewhat, so its always great to get feedback like this
ok, more questions for ya then
is the ribbon cable that connects both sides together still in good shape? its not too uncommon that these break after all this time. check to make sure its not cracked in half or anything unusual
speaking of that cable... just for your general knowledge, don't plug it in and unplug the cable when the console is powered on. power it off before messing with that cable,
nothin immediately jumps out to suggest right now, i'll think of something in a bit,
but, it could also be the capacitors in the console. if they've never been changed (doubtful), they are past their life expectancy already. bad caps in the console being changed out have fixed all sorts of strange problems for me, including LCDs that behaved like this (seem to be OK, but no image on the screen at all). i'd suggest you give exchanging the caps a try. but, of course, that might not be the problem then you're out a cap kit...
i'm sure somebody else will have some things for you to try out as well. its pre-coffee/etc part of the day for me atm... my mind isn't quite up to speed yet
i doubt anyone can diagnose this just by looking at it, especially if nothing looks out of the ordinary as you say...
i don't see any residue, but had batteries leaked inside of this unit? (pretty common)
and, ANY sort of response from the screen when you power on? have you adjusted the contrast knob?
does the LED stay lit, or does is just blink on then back off?
have you tried putting in a game? is there any sound at all on the unit? the 'plink' noise at the Nintendo logo, or menu music during the game?
(trying to rule out if its a LCD screen issue, or something more systemic, or whatever)
ChipMusic.org / Forums / Posts by kitsch
