(this is a hardware/software discussion thread, NOT a commercial thread, anything having to do with that please direct it to our thread in the 'for sale/trade' section, or PM me directly.  PLEASE let this be about info sharing and that sort of back-and-forth and not business and monies!  I'll update our website's business thread here with any info pertinent to when/where/how much...  not this thread.  only technical info pertaining to the cart)

Essentially everything is working on this guy and it's high time I share him with you all....  this is one of the carts we've been slaving away on!  I'm reserving the next few spots in this thread so I can keep all the info up top.  Each color-coded section in the picture below will get its own explanation area correlating to the main picture in this post, by color obviously.

There is a LOT going on in this cart which the picture doesn't capture whatsoever.  Really, a lot.  So check back for updates and whatnot, I'll be writing it as I get all the information organized and contributing more to the space here.

This will also push me to have the documentation ready for when the first batch is done, i'm very much looking forward to exploiting the potential in this with you all.  Updates, add-ons, etc are all planned and being work towards even now.

Its going to be an exciting ride.

But, for the moment, here's a very basic pic of all her parts,

^ but, you're happy to grab them, everyone on that page would love the extra traffic smile

(if you grab links from us, make sure all of them still work!)  i haven't checked that page in months and some of the people may not even be doing business anymore....  unfortunately

my 'haven't seen and want too's:

matthew joseph payne
little-scale
sulumi
albino ghost monkey

and, I too will have more.  would also like to see omadaka over and over and over again, ad infinitum

917

(161 replies, posted in General Discussion)

you *could* be invigorated solely by the excitement of the scene and a close knit mindset, but i think you'll be disappointed because its inability to fill your purse.

^ yeah, that's spot on.  apples and pears.

haha, thats a cool pic to dig up.  the design changed slightly since then its kind of nice seeing this version again

but its in production now so no more fiddling!

920

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

yes, its totally possible, and it looks remarkably like a Light

i sort of think i might have posted pics in my update thread someone sent in of their pocket EL mod,

or perhaps they will see this post and share them here?  its slipping my mind who they were

but, in short.  yes and yes.

from the newsletter

*****

hey everybody -

thursday customs has started making arduinoboys and we're really happy to be able to stock them!

http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/ar … ay-customs

housed in a NES controller, top quality as always, its pre-built and completely ready to go.

if you're unfamiliar with the arduinoboy project by Trash80, check it out here:

https://code.google.com/p/arduinoboy/

the arduinoboy project is a pretty invaluable bit of kit for the chipmusic scene, if you're wondering how to bridge your normal gear setup with your gameboy (sync, etc), check it out for sure.  big thanks to Trash80 for its 'being'

thats it for now, keep chipping!

matt

*****

thanks for looking!

the GB Boy, however, has the 5MHz crystal (same package)

the crystal rate in a stock gameboy is based on a 2^x calculation i believe, so (speculating alert) i'm wondering if finding whatever value closest to 25.000MHz in that way of arriving at the crystal value nintendo speculatively used would result in an 'in tune' result (meaning the makers of the console just chose the closest clock value to what they exactly needed, which was 25MHz)?  it seems like the GB Boy pitch fix being a crystal swap would mean the designers made similar decisions as Nintendo when creating its CPU (assuming its proprietary), so possibly did the same in the GB Boy Colour in regards to its internal structure

nitro2k01 (i think), a while ago, was just pondering in another thread over why nintendo used a 4.19xxxx crystal instead of a 4.000MHz one and mentioned something about the possible mathematical justification for this, and i think he was proposing it had something to do with an exponential relationship, base 2.  (sorry if this wasn't you or i've butchered your ponderings!)

its not

its a 25MHz crystal in the same package as the stock DMG crystal.  i forget the name of that package off the top of my head

924

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

thebitman wrote:

There was a guide a year or so ago on this forum about making LED-lit buttons, I'll try and dig it up. I know kitsch has been working on silicone-like buttons with LED holes for at least a year (it's somewhere in his shop thread), but you can drill your own holes and put the LEDs in yourself on clear buttons (you may want to sand the outside to change the light diffraction, as well as cut notches for the LED legs to escape through for wiring in series).

Hard to execute, almost ALWAYS stunning when done smile looks great!

those buttons will be ready momentarily, speaking of

decided to change a little something sort of on a whim.  worthwhile for the delay though, i'm thinking

very welcome, hope it helps others!  (the backlights are sort of hackable if you just jump into them and ain't skeered)

also, maybe wear latex/nitrile gloves doing this to avoid fingerprints? 

if there is any dust caught up in this, the canned air is the best thing to get it removed (no humidity, etc)

scotch tape to lift dust has really come in handy for tricky pieces too

yeah, looks like an rgbbb,

the common wire (the white one) has fallen off so without it the backlight won't work,

i was going to ask you to just PM me but this info might help others, but basically if you can remove the epoxy material you can somewhat easily remove the PCB which holds the LEDs and fix this.  if you peel up the optical films from the light guide you'll find there is a little cavity in it which holds the PCB in place, you can lift it out with it exposed, fix it, and put it back in.  and it'll be essentially like new.

if you happen to crease your film at all doing this, when peeling it up to get to the PCB, we sell spare sheets of it so just get in touch and i'll point you that way

and, if you need to replace the adhesive strip along the bottom, the thin double-sided tape is functionally the same, just cut it into a thin strip

apples and oranges maybe?