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I did it with a GBC clear cart.
Did a bit more sanding / dremmeling than I would've liked but hey, this cart is much sturdier and nicer looking than the flashcart's original shell.
No modification to the flashcart. Just modded shell swap.

As far as tips, just get an exacto, a dremmel tool, an empty cart and some time.
And don't rush.

I imagine Kirby's Tilt & Tumble's cart would be better clearance and it can be used in everything with that back corner notch that the clear color carts don't have.

I love bringing Game Boys back from the dead too.
CGBs are my current favorite since they are so easy to take apart, repair, mod, customize and reassemble.
It's the first GB I ever bought with my own money so there's a special sentimentality that goes into every one of them I bring back from the dead off of ebay.

This is the most fun hobby I've ever had and it's great that it basically pays for itself. :-)

I think the world is coming to an end and this is just more proof that not only is it on the way, but it's already HERE!
(insert spooky, dramatic music right in here)

The only things that need be removed in order to bond are the clear protective sheet and the reflective tape off the back of the panel.
Everything else can or should stay in place.
(I used a stripped down panel alone (w/o the led strip / wires cause that's all I had available for that particular photo op. I will try and get around to updating the photos with a complete unit to reduce further confusion.)

I recommend the reflective tape be placed on the front along the bottom (after curing) to cover the light bleed through the shell. The 5 leds will be visible through the shell case in a darkened location, even an opaque shell.

Again, the led strip can be replaced with a couple of dabs of superglue or another, effective adhesive, up to the end-user's discretion.

I have tried (started with actually) solar curing on the inside of a window sill with a handful of different units, and in my personal experience, It works great as a curing method.
Same (if not better) strength of bond albeit a noticeably longer curing time required. The only reason I don't do it now is because I have mostly a night schedule lately and so the curing lamp helps and I got tired of cloudy days, crappy weather and such.
But yes, it works great!

When the loca cures, it is "permanently bonded".
It is on there pretty damn well, especially with the higher quality loca, like Osaka.
I've used the typical stuff in a red tube and there's a noticeable difference in the bond.

The manufacturer's descriptions online say not to try removing thing's you've bonded with loca to an lcd screen and I have to agree, it's typically that strong.

"Better" would be an objective opinion to the end-user, but from my personal experience, I'm of the opinion that the horizontal, corrected positioning is the clearest method, however I have since lost interest in using that method for commission / resale front-lit CGBs due to the pros of the "101" / kitsch-loca method.

Let's say that it is very nice to have a personal collection of each of the main mods:
The standard SP mod, the corrected and this new one.

In my personal collection, I have those three in addition to a red led front-lit cgb (which I called "virtual boy color", an SP light panel front-lit loca'd with a white, dmg back-light panel (like mentioned before, clearer and brighter, but with faint pillars of light).
I've tried lots of light panels. NDS, DS Lite, DSi and such in my ongoing experiments, with mixed and mostly disappointing results.

The corrected orientation SP method is cleaner and slightly clearer while removing that horrid glare, but as much trouble as it is, not sure it justifies going through all that trouble unless to resell for a good profit.
An easier method I have done that was worth the trouble is a correct orientation, loca'd sp front-light, lit with a 4 led light panel strip from a dmg/mgb back-light kit.

Save for the faint pillars of light (which can be minimized by wrappinf the led strip with some of that white, milky back-light sheet (forget what it's called)), it is easier to do, less muss, less fuss, maybe a little more expensive, but, clearer without the fear of that dreaded, singular led which seem to be going out more and more as time wears them out. (or accidentally if you happen to be more rough with it than a newborn)
(great time to snag that now about useless sp (with the light that went out, (see ebay)) for that light panel which is still a delicacy among modders and ebay resellers!)
(lots of those guys suck at modding though and it shows...haha)

Good question though!