.

Glass is actually one of the surfaces they recommend using goo gone on, it shouldn't have any effect on it. Though it will damage the connection at the ribbon cable if it happens to touch it. Are you sure it wasn't the front that was damaged? Since the front is polarized film, not glass.

It's the liquid crystal leaking inside. MGB LCDs are notorious for that. A good percentage of them have the "black death" already around the outside, and the pressure from removing the foil can usually cause this issue, or make it worse. There's not much that can be done about it.

Only theirs are new, we've had them for about a year now, I think. I'd recommend just comparing specifications to determine which is better for you. The main differences are ours either have built in polarized film, or die cut molded film to avoid LCD lifting. They're thinner to avoid LCD pressure, and have a built in resistor to simplify the installation.

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Teh D3th St4r wrote:

Out of the 6 I've purchased 2 of them had the pressure points. Look at the photos of my Fallout Boy, and you'll see what I'm talking about.
I fixed it by removing the rubber strip at the base of the screen that keeps pressure on the ribbon strip.

I can only think of a couple things that can cause that. Misaligned polarized film, or the LCD housing not being cut. Shouldn't be an issue, they don't lift the LCD higher than the foam that's removed, and they're also the thinnest gameboy backlights, excluding EL backlights.

Teh D3th St4r wrote:

Yeah man. I love those panels. Easy install, nice even lighting, and the only problem I ever have with them is the pressure spots in the bottom corners of the screen.

There shouldn't be any pressure points, they're too thin to add any pressure on the LCD. Have you had this problem more than once?

Thanks, guys. smile

The worst you'll get from us is unsatisfactory LSDj stickers that we're gradually getting rid of.

441

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

The text is far too small to for vinyl cutting. Something like mylar would probably be better, and would be reusable.

There's these too, if you don't want to mod it. Modding is usually cheaper though. http://asmretro.com/ps-2-adapter

Here's all the information on how to mod one: http://littlesounddj.wikia.com/wiki/PC_ … _Interface

Scratch this. Thought it was the cartridge slot, but on second look, it seems to have the tabs to prevent misalignment.

They're plug-and-play, yes. They're also all tested.

A few questions:
What version of LSDj are you using?
Are you booting with the keyboard plugged in, or plugging it in after boot?
Is the sequencer playing?

Also check your batteries, sometimes with low batteries the keyboard will power up but not work.

Feel free to use the contact form at the shop, by the way. I'm more than happy to help with product related troubleshooting.

445

(12 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

The GQ-4X is a Willem as well, actually. I own a few programmers, and I've had pretty good results with the GQ-4X.

HardstyleFox wrote:

Is there any way I can fix the led in my backlight, or do I have to get another one?

You can't fix dead LEDs and you probably can't replace it easily either. Try to return it or exchange it, the resistor value is probably wrong, or these aren't tested and the board is faulty.

That's not one from us, is it? I've never seen a dead LED in a panel like this.

Teh D3th St4r wrote:

so who cares if I was wrong about soaking it for hours?

You were corrected because people will try it, and people have tried it.