1,617

(12 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

An0va: I'd like to do an experiment with your unit. I will prepare a special ROM for you that will test a fix for this. If you don't hear from me in a wekk or two, please PM/e-mail me and poke me about it. smile

1,618

(13 replies, posted in General Discussion)

The stranger part of that FAQ item is that the domain is registered to someone in Germany...

1,619

(18 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I'd better make an announcement here as well. If you ever run into problems with a song that loads forever or is corrupt, or if all your songs are gone one day, contact me. It's not impossible that I can actually fix the problem and recover the song full, or at least to a useful state. Remember this announcement until you need it.

Contact me at [email protected] or with a PM.

To try to recover a song, I need a sav file from your cartridge. If you back up the data at several points, don't overwrite any old files, as an old file may contain data that was later corrupted.

Don't simply send me a "lsdsng" format file as that may not give me all the data I need. Don't play around with the file in LSDManager without saving a copy, as that may also overwrite useful data.

And of course, prevent the disaster before it happens by backing up often and store your backups in a safe place. smile

1,620

(56 replies, posted in General Discussion)

http://blog.gg8.se/wordpress/

1,621

(17 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Oh, yeah! The "source" of the noise, so to speak, is the CPU, but as far as I understand, it "happens" in the headphone amplifier, depending on how much other parts of the whole circuit can attenuate it. So prosound should still make a huge difference. Also, not all noise components are the same. The power supply itself will also still output a certain amount of noise, even without the help of the CPU.

1,622

(17 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

It appears to be a bit on the noisy side, yes, but you can always expect noise from the headphone jack of the DMG. From what I understand the most of this noise comes from the headphone amplifier and there are two distinct noise source.
1) "Transistor noise". This is the noise inherent to all semiconductors in different degrees. This is white noise. Not much you can do in the way removing it.
2) Power supply fluctuations/interference. This is just my understanding of it which is hopefully correct. For various reasons, the internal power supply line can fluctuate slightly. This carries over into the headphone signal. When the power supply ducks slightly, so does the signal, and you end up with interference.
This happens because the DC/DC power converter can't always keep up the pace with the changes in load by the CPU.

It gets worse if the batteries are almost dry. (Get new ones, or recharge if they are rechargeable)

It gets worse if certain capacitors are dried out. The cause for this problem is usually dodgy components. Game Gear was notorious for this for example. This is not a known problem for Gameboys, but might still have happened for example if the unit has been stored in in a moisture.

It gets worse when power save mode is on in LSDj as that turns the CPU on and off all the time. In newer versions of LSDj, the power save mode is hardcoded to auto. That's what pixls is describing.

But this noise is always there to some degree in the headphone jack. In my experience, prosounding always gives a nice and clean sound, so I would recommend you to actually do that.

1,623

(18 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Bit Shifter wrote:
Frostbyte wrote:

Thank god we have  enough electricity to flush the toilet and brush our teeth. That was close.

?

Maybe he's living in a remote house with a backup battery and his own water pump?

1,624

(37 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

No, it's just a momentary switch. What I said about the switch going off when pressed all the way in, was a theory of how your switch might have failed in such a way that the unit turns off when you release the button.

1,625

(37 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

First off, that switch is not a real on/off switch. It's a momentary switch which causes the power regulator circuit to turn on when pressed, and off when pressed again. In other words, it doesn't latch, it just closes momentarily. To my understanding, what causes the regulator circuit to react is a positive edge, i.e. off -> on transition.

The only thing I can think of is that you have somehow pressed the button too far in a lot of times. My theory is that when you press your switch all the way in, the switch first makes, then breaks again when you press it all the way in. Then when you release the switch, it makes and breaks once more on the way out, causing the unit to go off when you release the button. Check if it works better if you try to press the button as quickly as you can or if you only press it halfway in.

Also, you should place the screws correctly, as they have different pitch. The silver screw should be to the left of the power button. This is the "ground screw". It might be so that the board flexes back and forth, if you placed a black screw there, assuming the screw doesn't even grip onto the screw mount. But those two things are really all I can think of. And apart from the screw placement, neither thing should have anything to do with the mod.

1,626

(37 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

I'm just trying to look for any anomalies, really. It sounds like a very strange error. Are you sure that nothing is shorted? Are all the connectors fully inserted? What you're describing might be a problem with the power regulator chip, but even then I have a hard time seeing how you could have damaged it.

1,627

(37 replies, posted in Other Hardware)

TraceKaiser: Can you snap some photos of the insides?

Like I said, Reaktor... Even if you use it with external gear, it's brilliant. There's an advanced envelope generator instrument which you can use, and you'll never need another envelope generator. Or just use Reaktor for all your synth needs.

If you really need analog, I'd recommend Renoise + MIDI CV interface  (or DC coupled audio interface) + a modular synth system. But you'll need enough money.

Or, you might just prioritize real analogue a little bit lower and go with Renoise + Reaktor. It comes with a learning curve and it isn't analog, but gives you all the possibilities you want.

Also, C64's filter is analog and raw. And while C64's oscillators aren't analog, they're certainly raw.

Also, I love your music, triple question mark man.

1,630

(64 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Good. Now upload the video "10 MINUTES OF FOOTAGE FROM HOTEL MARIO WHILE I PLAY THE SUPER MARIO MELODY PLAYED WITH THE SUPER MARIO COIN SOUND" to YouTube!

Maybe EnergyXT?

It'll work. with LittleFM. It's just a matter of writing a new flash driver for the flash chip in derpie. But because I'm lazy, you'll probably just be able to use the 8 MBit for savs, i.e. 8 slots. That's the same as in other compatible cartridges.