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Figured it out, I had accidentally traced back the ground lead instead of the speaker switching mechanism lead.

Just spitballin a few ideas here:
Try connecting to separate 5volt source
Make sure the ltc is connected to legs 2&3 of the potentiometer
Connect both to the same clock point?/ Connect the clock out of the easy to the ltc then to the clock?

Are you trying to run them simultaneously?
This would probably cause the screen to go blank because its trying to interpret 2 different clock signals.
Does the ltc work when the easy clock is at normal speed?

Fixed: As time goes on, there is an ever growing supply of broken gameboys and salvaging parts from broken gameboys to make fully functional devices can't hurt.

ebay + search term "Gameboy broken"

As for the ZIF connector

No, but I'd rather have him do it, then someone who didn't look at a tutorial

The pocket screen is a better candidate for a screen since its pixel color is truer to shades of black instead of being blueish like that of a normal DMG. Also it revives any front pcb with horizontal lines by replacing screen entirely . Plus its just another thing to add to the list of documented gameboy modifications.

Out of curiosity any eta of second wave of carts?

Vinyle dye is a bit different then spray paint (It comes in spray paint can form though). It soaks into the plastic instead of just putting a coat over the material, there for making it superior in standing up to wear and scratches. I applied it to the buttons power switch and link cover they must be of a different type of plastic as they didn't take the dye, so only the case and back battery cover are dyed. I used kitsch's start select buttons in the white one and followed this guide for the black one: http://chipmusic.org/forums/topic/8581/ … t-buttons/