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take a look at the ribbon cable on the LCD screen.

its slightly possible one of the additives in the alcohol ate away ate the cable a little, or something like this. 

they can really add anything to that stuff, if it was acetone this may be your issue.  i'm not sure what the range of stuff they add is really, its just so you don't drink it (its just ethanol+poisonous chemical).  its more of an industrial solvent if i'm not mistaken, not a contact cleaner.  then again, really not familiar with it, other than seeing it in the store.

yeah, just drop it on the table.  fine with me.  if its a whooole bunch, i'll keep on copy on the table and the rest underneath, and restock the item when it gets picked up

the deadline is ASAP.  i'm not entirely sure when i'm leaving for NY, but like i said, I don't want to be left hanging waiting on a rushed shipment, so the sooner the better...

*i expect all of you to come by the table and say hello, btw.  whether you're dropping stuff off or not.  i'd love to meet you all!*

guess i should mention, do not send stuff that isn't free.  this is for free stuff only...

i'm not really familiar enough with the backlight (its installation/construction/whatnot) to know if it had anything to do with it.  but,

-- did you use this set-up before installing the backlight?
-- if you can smell the burn through a closed case, you can probably see the aftermath on the PCB.  what parts look fudged?
-- do you have a way to test the RGB colors independently?  one of them could have burned out causing the smell, if your voltage was too high...

which gets to my speculation that voltages were summed somehow.  again, don't know enough about the installation or how the kit works to say, but if something burned out its more than likely a voltage issue from where the units were connected via the link cable.  regulator failed, voltages were summed, something along those lines.

i'm guessing this was an official Nintendo link cable?  if not, it probably doesn't have the 5V pin wired (if it does, please share your source so forget what i just said.

you can change the title by editing the first post   i'll let you handle editing it unless you want me to...  'me' doesn't quite do it...

and, thanks for posting and introducing yourself!

i have some spare acekard 2i's i'm trying to get rid of here: http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/utilities

i know its not an r4, but figured i'd mention it. 

i didn't list them as a proper product because i don't plan on stocking them, so if you pick one up go back to that page and add your shipping too.

oh.yes.

i don't have a cap kit for the nes ready yet, sorry.  haven't even started doing them for top loaders...

caps generally have a ~15 year life span.  not sure when that unit was made exactly...

i sort of doubt its that though.  if a failing cap actually affected the console in a noticeable way, it'd be a gradual change i'd think (caps leak, but slowly most the time).  if it was a sudden change, and it was the fault of a cap, it could has exploded but i think you'd know that.  but, still, even if the cap completely failed, the likeliness of it killing the system is slight unless it failed in a way it shorted out the console...

not really sure about this one.  shake the console, do you hear anything loose?