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For about 30 cents more you can get 20 vice the 5 for the above link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301489856462?_t … EBIDX%3AIT

Sorry, I meant to post it originally but got cross-fukt doing some multi-tasking.
(updated the old link)

I find using a 1k trim potentiometer like Mr. Kitsch suggests on his site works fabulously (thanks man! :-).
If you can find your sweet spot for the brightness with it, you won't even have to find a place to cut a hole in the shell case for it.
(But now I'm thinking of drilling a small hole under the battery cover.)
Small ones are dirt cheap on ebay as well.

I'm using these right now.
Pack of 20 for about $3.50.
http://imgur.com/RbBtBBK,yv6tAyw,5lGCl4 … GB,wFy1PhI

I have a guide on how to install it but I'm having trouble with the site right now.
It's pretty easy though.

Either your soldering iron is too powerful or you're keeping the tip on the contact much too long.
All you need to do to make a good contact is to tin the tips of the wires, then use that solder on the tinned wire tips to make the connection onto the tiny contact pads. Just enough to melt the solder. Should be like no more than 2 seconds.

I made that mistake once before but never again after doing it this way.

Also, it seems to me that a good connection can still be had by soldering to those exposed metal points which are still present.
If that won't work, try scraping off some plastic from the nearby leads and soldering there.

If that's STILL a bust, the light panel is still good without that single led anyway. So you could use a single white, led (as found online or from toy junk) or a 4 led strip from a game boy backlight or the kitsch-bent gbc front-light (my personal fave to use since it's so bright and easy to use).

Oh, oh!
And another thing, liquid tape is a good material to use to reinforce small solder points like these.
Awesome stuff!

Yeah, I'm trying to turn my sub into something like that. Especially on the Color, which is my fave GB.

I wouldn't be surprised if these are actual production pieces. Maybe an unused lot or the manufacturer still has the materials to produce and have resumed production. Cause the light panel material is supposed to be proprietary, which could be a big hint.

I have tried using one to do the corrected orientation method (the "mylk" method: http://www.mylkstuff.com/page87.htm#.VRRJgfmDmuI).
(Although minus the small, extra details like sinking the lcd further into the lcd frame, shaving down the end of the perspex strip, and adding a polarized film (which I found darkened the display too much to my preference)).

Thanks! I'm pretty impressed myself. For $8 shipped, they're a steal. Looking for ways to improve this mod it so it can look as good in the photos as it does to the human eye. I'm thinking of sanding down the smooth side of the light bridge.

Color all the way.
Easy to internal pro-sound and "broken" ones can be had for around $15 on ebay.
(maybe evn less if you're persistent)
9 times out of ten those just need to be cleaned or need a new speaker, which is no biggie.

Front-lighting a color is difficult, either method, but once you do a couple of them successfully, there's not much you can't do.
I suggest modding a couple for the challenge and experience.