lost wrote:
Doctor Octoroc wrote:

Then you'll want a stereo 1/8" to 1/4" audio cable and plug the 1/4" end into one of the jacks on the front.

Thanks, but what kind of cable? Is it called "TRS" ?

I googled it and heres what came up https://www.amazon.com/stereo-cable-Pla … B06WVJ1P27

Yes, that cable will work for your needs. A bit of educational info to expand on why TRS...

TRS (tip, ring sleeve) refers to a stereo connection whereas TS (tip, sleeve) is a mono connection. So it also depends on whether or not the cable is split. If you have a single cable with one 1/8" end and one 1/4" end, you want it to be TRS on both ends so you get stereo separation on both ends. If you have a split cable (one 1/8" end to two 1/4" ends), the 1/4" ends should be TS and the 1/8" end should be TRS. If you have any doubts as to what kind of cable you have, look at the ends and see how many metal segments there are separated by plastic rings, including the tip. Three segments means it's TRS, two means it's TS. Just remember same number of segments, same number of letters in the name.

lost wrote:
herr_prof wrote:

if your mixer doesnt have rca, you can also get https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail … ts-10-foot

I got a PreSonus AUDIOBOX USB 96

Then you'll want a stereo 1/8" to 1/4" audio cable and plug the 1/4" end into one of the jacks on the front.

lost wrote:

Hey, i'm kinda bad at knowing what kind of cables I need for this and that so how would I record my gameboy into my audio interface? What kind of cables would I need, i see a lot people saying "Just record out of the microphone jack" but how? I don't know what cable I need for that

From a stock Gameboy to a laptop/PC directly, you'll most likely need a 1/8" male to 1/8" male cable. Search for that on Amazon and you'll find plenty of those (most people use them for playing music from their phones into a stereo with a 1/8" jack on the front).

Depending on your audio interface, since you mentioned that, the input might be a 1/4" in which case you would need a 1/8" male to 1/4" male. Also commonly found.

If your audio interface has a two separate red and white (or red and black) inputs then you want a 1/8" to RCA cable. This one has a single 1/8" male on one end and it splits off into two RCA type plugs - one will commonly be red (right channel) and the other white (left channel), although sometimes the left channel is black as well. Again, make sure all ends are male.

You can also get adapters between nearly any two types of audio connections. For example, I use RCA to 1/4" on my mixer so I can separate the stereo from my GB into separate channels instead of putting them both into one channel.

Does anyone know if the GB Boy Color works with a Teensyboy (Pro) and MGB? Does the pitch only get screwy with a tracker cart or do external MIDI signals also control differently?

It's always something silly and simple, no need to feel embarrassed!

I had a similar issue when I first started recording from my DMG but I had just done the prosound mod so I thought I goofed up the mod and did loads of troubleshooting in vein on account of that. I finally realized that by just using a 1/8" to RCA R/L cable, everything was just fine.

I have a tiny 4-channel Mackie mixer so I have to use the RCA line in since the 1/4" jacks are taken up by my prosound NES I use in conjunction with the DMG. I use an Amazon Basic 1/8" to split L/R RCA cable, no need for anything fancy. I keep it simple with recording in Audacity and do very minor mastering after the fact. Basically, I only make adjustments that I can feasibly do live playing through a mixer so minor channel panning to create a bit of stereo separation on the NES and I pull the stereo back to center a bit on the GB input so it's not 100% in each channel (I go 70% R and L so panned notes are heard in both channels to some degree but everything center stays pretty much the same). But I adjust all the bass, mid and treble on the mixer while recording.

I will go back in to remove noticeable 'clicks' on slow tracks but I've actually found a way to compose by overlapping notes that removes the clicking artifacts in most instances. It can only be done when using external MIDI send with something like the Teensyboy+MGB but it's probably the best trick I've learned for composing with the DMG. I don't believe there's a way to do that with any step sequencers, however.

I used HHL's IPS mod a few months back, the sound is definitely better than it was on my old backlit model - one thing worth noting is that different color screens have a slightly different effect. There is a very subtle high-pitched noise (only can really hear it in headphones) but the darker color screens make it less noticeable. I always keep my screen on red since that seems to be the quietest but it's barely there listening through speakers or a decent mixer.

I've found a way to mitigate the click sound (almost entirely) when sending MIDI through a Teensyboy but I don't think there's any way to apply my fix in a tracker since it involves overlapping notes - it basically treats the note change as one continuous note with an instantaneous pitch bend (like the note is continuing but at a different key). I don't use trackers so I'm not entirely sure how they function but from what I understand, continuous notes on the same channel can't be overlapped, can they? They essentially must be written to come one after another, if I understand correctly.

Orgia Mode wrote:
Doctor Octoroc wrote:

So quick update, I tried turning it on today and turning the color/brightness wheel to see if there was any response and it was too tight (screws were a tad overturned) so I went to loosen them up and once I released some pressure from the two screws closest to the wheel, the display came on for a few seconds. I got all excited but then I lost it again and can't get it back no matter what I do.

It sounds like there may be a broken solder joint on the wheel, or near it. Can you look at the solder points very closely? Both on the wheel and the other component on the opposite side of the board?

I took it apart yesterday and looked all all the caps and joints and didn't spot anything out of the ordinary but that sounds like the most likely culprit since it managed to come back briefly. The easiest fix may honestly just be replacing the main board and redoing the pro sound mod, if I can't locate the precise point of failure. For all I know, it could be one of the pins connecting the cart connector to the main board which I don't think is an easy fix.

So quick update, I tried turning it on today and turning the color/brightness wheel to see if there was any response and it was too tight (screws were a tad overturned) so I went to loosen them up and once I released some pressure from the two screws closest to the wheel, the display came on for a few seconds. I got all excited but then I lost it again and can't get it back no matter what I do.

So I still stand by the IPS screen mod but I'm having an issue and maybe someone with a bit more experience can help.

Turned on my DMG with IPS and prosund mod earlier today and got the normal "Gameboy" splash screen and ding but then the screen went black (not off, just no graphics displayed). Turned it off and on again and the screen illuminates, sound appears to be working (that initial 'bump' sound can be heard but nothing after that) but no splash or display. Tried taking the MGB cart out and turning it on without any cart inside, nothing . Tried a few other game carts, no change.

From what I can tell, everything works except for perhaps the connection somewhere between the old board and the new one that came with the IPS mod. I don't think the IPS itself is the problem but I did notice that when it first goes on, it appears brighter then dims to the normal brightness (for an all black screen). It's an odd problem because both the screen and sound work but neither is being produced.

I checked the ribbon cable and the connection is solid. Removed the main cable (between front and back board) and turned on with no screen (as expected) or indication of sound - plugged it back in, same as before with the 'bump' and illuminated screen but no display. I'm baffled.

I HIGHLY recommend the IPS mod. Did it myself a few months ago and it's so crisp. And the upside is you can adjust the color and brightness of the screen to conserve battery power. Assuming you're using it for making music, I've found that the darker colors (red and blue, primarily) cause less background noise.

Okay, quick update - I found a way to reduce the click (it's more of a bump like on the NES pulse channels) for consecutive notes in the same key. The trick is to extend the end of every note in the sequence to the end of the last note so all notes end at the same point. If you have a different note at a different key afterward, you can extend that entire series to overlap the next one in order to reduce the click between those as well. I went through and did this for all of my tracks and they sound so much better/cleaner!

sloopygoop wrote:

Doc Ock -- I didn't really notice this stuff TOO too much in the past. Now I'm working with a recording engineer who gets driven up a wall by these clicks, and I'm a lot more sensitive to it.

I try to at least be careful of panning back and forth in the same channel when recording. But I'm using LSDJ and I don't know how I'd mess with that in mGB... Best of luck!

I honestly never noticed until I bought some studio earphones and now I notice every single one, even some times when other channels are playing over!

I found another cool trick when going through all of my tracks - with lead parts or melody lines, I've been overlapping the tail end of some notes over others where I want them to blend a bit more (really, it's akin to having less attack on notes with the previous ones overlapping). Mixing that with some pitch bend in certain parts really smooths out the transition from note to note. It's especially convenient for lead melodies in covers where multiple 'syllables of the same word' in the original track are spread across different notes. It's very subtle but the difference between consistent note to note attack and variable attack with this trick makes it sound much better to my ear.

At this point, I've pretty much done some sort of overlap in every 'tone' channel on both the GB and my NES (which doesn't 'click' but does have a little bump associated with beginning of each note). Do this with a bunch of channels and the overall mix sounds cleaner as well. Just don't overdo it if you want punch in certain parts!

.exe wrote:

Covering up excessive clicking can be tough.

There's one more strategy which I don't see people talk about, which is a little counter intuitive. If you use the noise channel a tiny bit in such a way that blends with the clicking and the sound itself, you can actually make it sound less noisy overall. This is what I did with the chord sound at the very beginning of ULTRAACID XX: https://soundcloud.com/dotexechiptune/ultraacid-xx - The chord notes make tons of clicking on their own since it's two pulse sounds with envelopes on top of a full resolution wave channel sound with nothing else playing. I added a small noise channel tone on top of each chord note that ends just after the chord notes, and just tweaked it until you could barely hear the noise tone in isolation but it dramatically decreased the percieved clicking. There is still some noise but the sound was incredibly bad before. There is no post-processing beyond amplification. I think you could even get it to sound better than this because there is some additional noise I didn't hear on my headphones when I first made the track and I didn't explore this strategy much. This strategy is situational and difficult but I hope it helps.

First off, thanks a million for your input. Great to see someone who expands on their answer as much as I do!

Second, I should have mentioned before that I'm using a Teensyboy Pro with MGB cart and controlling everything from my DAW (FL Studio). I don't believe this is especially contributory to the problem but it's important as far as considering fixes- primarily because what I mention below can't be done on LSDJ (as far as I know - I haven't use it much).

So adding noise channel elements is a really interesting take that I was sort of implementing in a different way already as far as 'why it works' - and likewise, this is one of those things that is more hit-or-miss depending on all of the other parameter settings - but I found in some instances that overlapping the tail end of a note with the beginning of the next one can do a lot to minimize or eliminate the clicking noise. Silencing the click at the beginning or end of a note in post is easy but the problem usually is more prevalent between back to back notes (at least in my compositions) and inserting a silence of just the right length so it eliminates the click but doesn't take out enough to be a noticeable drop-out is a razor-thin line that I can hit only about 25% of the time without numerous attempts looking at both the waveform and spectrogram.

The major downside to overlapping is that it doesn't work on notes with any volume decay or in situations where consecutive notes are at the same key (A-B-C-D-E works fine but A-A-A-A-A in a series does not) and if you try that, the next note cuts at the same time as the note prior to it ends. A lot of the time, I use multiple notes with descending volume levels to make a faux-decay on the pulse channels (which I do a LOT since volume envelope doesn't last over longer notes, especially at lower note-on volumes, and there's no manual volume control over the course of single notes on the DMG like on the NES) so most of the clicking comes in during those segments. I just try to put the breaks between consecutive note segments at locations that have other note-on changes already or, as you hinted, where noise channel is currently playing something.

LotZo wrote:

I don't know where all the problems come from, but the signal that comes out of a DMG is quite noisey. What I notice is that many notes start off quite asymmetrical. Or so I remember. Maybe you can correct it I don't know. A highpass filter at around 50hz is not a bad idea.

Are you referring to the background noise? That's not an issue since it's not noticeable when notes are playing and a pro-sound mod will take care of it.

I was talking about the distinct clicking sound that can be heard at note on and off signals (as well as certain other functions like panning). It's a super short 'burst' that registers as an uptick on the waveform and is very noticeable if there aren't any other loud sounds occurring at the same time.

I definitely prefer the sound quality of the DMG but I'm half-tempted to try out a GBA or later to avoid the clicking sound at either end of notes, panning, etc. I find that I sometimes change the way I compose in order to hide it or avoid it, or otherwise I edit the recordings (inserting silences being the most common) because in headphones, it hurts my brain.

Anyone have any creative solutions of their own to circumvent, mitigate, avoid, or cope with this phenomenon? Are there any mods that improve this or is the root problem the sound generation of the chip itself?