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More like shill bidding/stat raising is my bet. Look at the bid history. First 11 bets where g***s raises the bid about $100 at a time. This does not even include auto-bidding, so it's not even that he set a maximum auto-bid and then someone kept bidding higher and higher. These are actual bids made by that mo-fo. And then a final bid by 8***p. (Names are hidden as you can see.) I'll bet that someone whose name starts with 8 and ends with p will start making a scam auctions within days.

Seriously, someone should report this to their customer service. I don't have an eBay account, but feel free...

I can tell you exactly what's going on.

higher res

There are two red boxes in the image.

The upper right one is a diode array with two diodes in the same package. They both have the cathode connected to the bottom pin. The two upper pins are the anodes, ie where the voltage "enters" to speak simply. The right one of those is connected to the positive terminal of the battery and the right one to the 5V on the cartridge slot and USB supply. This way both the sources can power the SRAM chip without interfering. Otherwise, the +5V from the Gameboy/USB would destroy the battery and the battery would discharge through the other circuits on the board when there was no external power.

The chip marked ISSI is the SRAM chip. It's a really low power RAM module that will draw almost no current.

The other part of the magic secret sauce is the capacitor C12. It's there mainly to smooth out the power supply when turning on or off the external power. A capacitor is commonly compared to a bucket that can hold an electrical charge. When you turn on the external power, instead of going directly from ~3V from the battery to 5V, the power goes (relatively) slowly from one voltage level to the other. Same thing if you turn off the power. Instead of going right down to ~3V, the voltage slowly drops as the capacitor gets discharged.

Same thing applies even if there's no battery: the charge drops slowly from 5V to 0V as the SRAM circuit consumes current. Until the voltage goes below the threshold of what the SRAM circuit needs to hold the data, the data is retained.

This reminds me of something that happened to my mother. She discovered that the remote control to her TV worked for a short while after she had pulled out the batteries, and it also has a capacitor for similar reasons. She thought the remote control was magical/haunted.

This happens when one of the display connectors, the flat "cables" soldered to the board, are broken or have come loose. It's embarrassing, but I can't make out in my head which connector is supposed to give those vertical lines. I suggest you do the following. I actually took these pictures just the other day for my latest blog post.

First look at the brown cable at the bottom of the LCD. Look for breaks in the plastic. That means you're basically screwed. Next step is to reflow the solder. You probably want to do this with a fine tip iron and a steady hand. Also, probably turn the power off while doing this in case you get an accidental shortcut. Now, go over the soldering points one by one and just touch each joint quickly. If everything looks ok, turn it on and see if the problem is gone.

If not, proceed to the green connector under the screen. (Actually, they're both, both brown and green on opposite sides.) That's in the lower right side of this image. This one is a little bit trickier since there's nothing to hold it in place. (The other connector is attached with a piece of metal and a screw near this piece of metal) Do something like hold down the connector to the board with your index finger, and hold the screen up with our middle finger and place the remaining finger on the other side of the screen. Be careful at all times. Now go through these solder joints as well. Actually, start with just the leftmost one, and try turning the 'boy on one time. Especially the leftmost one takes a lot of strain when lifting the display as you do in the backlighting procedure.

Good luck. You'll need it...

Also, as others have pointed out, it seems like you put the panel upside down, even though that has nothing to do with the other problem. It will just give you a darker screen filled with little dots. (Those are actually reflectors to distribute the light evenly across the panel.)

ROMs: http://www.personal.triticom.com/~erm/GameBoy/
The way you do create them is by merging files together. In Windows:
copy /b menu.gb + 1.gb + 2.gb out.gb
In Linux etc.:
cat menu.gb 1.gb 2.gb > out.gb

You basically smack them together to one big file.

However, there are two issues when using this with LSDj.
1) ROMs must be aligned to their size because of how the logic chip handling thesethings is working. For example, if the ROM is 128 kBytes big, it must be placed on an multiple of that size, like 128 kBytes, 256 kBytes, 224 kBytes and so on. You can't place it 64 kBytes into the combited ROM image, for example. This creates a problem for LSDj as it has to be placed either at the very start, where the menu ROM is supposed to be, or at the 1 MByte, 2 MByte or 3 MByte marks. The latter option is problematic because the existing menu ROMs don't have a clue they should look so far into the ROM, unless you just happen to fill up exactly the right space. (They stop looking when they don't see any more ROMs.)

2) SRAM management. The existing menu ROMs rely on being able to save the SRAM contents to the upper portions (32 kByte+) of SRAM. This is fine for games, but for LSDj, it will interfere with LSDj's file system. I think I have a solution for that too.

What? Random color? Why not just choose a random color and use the regular color tag?

If that's you, then this is Nullsleep?

http://tlc.discovery.com/videos/la-ink- … irate.html

cTrix: You're right in both the things you are saying, but you're missing my point. I wasn't trying to disprove Lazerbeat but answer the question why things ended up the way they are today, i.e. how the general populace perceives things.