Saskrotch wrote:

but wait what are you gonna do when you get the back pcb working on its own

<snarky nitro mode>
You could always damage a DMG shell an make your own version of the mythical Gulf War Gameboy that plays Tetris forever, but without a display.
</snarky nitro mode>

You could wire up a single button as a start button, between pin 6 and, uhm I can't remember off the top of my head which of the connections marked "button diodes".

http://gbdev.gg8.se/forums/viewtopic.php?pid=400

Yeah, the CPU doesn't know whether there's a screen attached. You won't have any direct button input however, so there's that. You could get around that with some planning. Say put LSDj in slave mode and start the playback from the other side of the link cable. Or use it for MIDI.

4mat wrote:

EVERYBODY knows what this shit is now.

Let's spend 10 pages discussing that what the general public knows isn't actually chipmusic.

Why use Audacity for this? Any good tracker will offer a way to draw waveforms in the program.
Milky: Hold shift while holding the mouse button.
Renoise: Select the draw tool. Renoise will also create ask to create a new waveform if you're trying to draw on an empty one, which will be correctly tuned by default.

758

(2 replies, posted in Bugs and Requests)

What happens if you click the download link? Do you get an error, your browser's own player, a file download?

759

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

Hey, don't be a dick. Only I am allowed to be a dick.

Also, moved to the handhelds forum.

I started writing a long-ass post on this yesterday, which I haven't finished yet. Should I?

Needs more diodes!

Refer to the schematic here, lower left corner of the first schematic. They are needed to guarantee that the 6-wire layout works properly. It may not be obvious when using LSDj, but as soon as  you do certain 3 button combos, the DMG will detect a 4th ghost button. Consider what happens when you press say A, right and down, when the diodes are not in place. Effectively, P13 and P15 are shorted as well, and a non-existent start button press will register.

For testing this, I recommend this thing that I made which will indicate all pressed button on the screen.

Could you please try running this? It's a program for patching LSDj with LittleFM, so it won't help you in that regard, but it's also written in Java, and I want to know if it also breaks on your computer.

http://blog.gg8.se/gameboyprojects/week … apon02.zip

Well, it has to fit in the space. CRxxyy denotes the size of the battery, where xx is the diameter and y.y is the height, in those pesky metric units. So for example a cr2032 is 20 mm in diameter and 3.2 mm tall. For the metroid cart, this should just work right away. Of coure, you need to respect the polarity, however.

For the bleepbloop cart things get a little bit trickier, since it was not designed to use a CR2032 battery. You might even need a smaller size, say a CR1632. You'll want to solder one of the sides to a pad for mechanical robustness. For this, you'll probably want to connect the + tab to the bottommost terminal. However, only the top terminal (of the two soldered to the holder) is actually connected electrically to the rest of the circuit on bleepbloops. The other one is just an island pad. So you'd need to make a connection between the two pads using a thin wire. And you'd also need to connect the negative terminal of the battery to any ground point on the board using a jumper wire. For example the on in the microcontroller programming port. You also need to put some form of isolation around or under the battery to stop it form shorting to other things on the board. Heatshrink is not recommended, as the battery is sensitive to heat. Or at least be careful if you use it. PHEW.

Oh, or...
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/battery-h … s/2197954/

arfink: Not that. The bleepbloop carts came with a sleeve which was ust a metal part sitting over the battery. See the image below. The advantage of that compared to a more traditional holder is the low profile. However, this also means the PCB needs to be designed for this holder since you need to solder the holder on both sides, and the battery needs to make contact with the board on the bottom side. You can't just put this type of holder in a game cartridge. Nor would you need to. The batteries typically used in game carts are big enough to last 10+ years. As for replacing the sleeve, failing to find the right component, you might just replace it with CR2032 battery instead, assuming you can make it fit.inside the case.

When did you buy them? I may be interested in certain really old EMS cartridges, made maybe 2006 and earlier.How you can tell: I'm looking for a cartridge with 4 Atmel chips on it, which consequently means no Intel chip. I'd be able to tell from a photo, assuming there isn't a label covering the bottom half of the cartridge case.

766

(99 replies, posted in General Discussion)

infradead wrote:

and closed!

use this http://trash80.com/junkfood/8bitnamegenerator

Lazerbeat wrote:

God dammit! You beat me to the name generator.

Not even close. wink
http://chipmusic.org/forums/post/172600/#p172600
I thought about closing the thread right there and then but then I thought, whatever!
RIP!

767

(3 replies, posted in Atari)

It doesn't really matter, but I'm always wondering why someone disables comments and ratings on all their videos like that.

Not me. Turns out I'm becoming 31. OH WELL!