they are usually on amazon, or appear there regularly for not too much

i've always used a straight razor.  but, i also run cases through the dish washer too if i'm keeping them....  so there's that

i'm totally about to go to seattle or portland too.  somewhere in the NW.

also am looking forward to reading more comments in this thread!  everyone....  expand as much as you can.

cost of living considerations compared with elsewhere?
things to expect that may be unexpected?
i've also heard that seattle has the fastest recovering housing market in the USA, atm.  so, is rent low there now?  or, is everything still pricy?  i'm assuming homes are a bit much... hopefully average rent isn't...
are the eastern parts of these states as conservative as i've heard (compared to the coastal areas)?  (spokane has a much different rep than seattle, for example)

also, in terms of community events (i.e., free fun things to do in town)...  whats the deal like?  currently i live in a black hole, it takes money to go out and do pretty much anything.  i'd really like to avoid this and be in a place with some sense of community.

being able to go to timbers or sounders games regularly really is sort of a cool prospect...

edit -- also, re: the weather....   i've heard the winters in the NW really aren't that bad, its a more moderate winter with less frigid temps and heavy snows.  so, is this true?  or, does winter kick ass there?  (i think it was something to do with the current off the coast keeping the air a little warmer)

the camera ROM, last time i checked, doesn't run correctly.  most likely because the lack of the correct hardware.  on a 64M cart at least.

if you're uisng older style backlights (like our VA), the backlight panel may be a bit thick and cause the case to bulge.  the best way (imo) to fix that is just loosen the screws a little, but you've tried that it seems....

the later backlight versions basically made that bulge a non-issue.  but, the bulge problem causing the screen to pop up sounds just like what you're describing (which makes me just wonder about which version you are using).  might be good to just check and make sure the case isn't bulging still.  really....  the screens sholdn't pop up randomly unless there is a non-flat surface.  either the case, or the screen itself,

of course make sure the surface area is totally clean before application.  won't stick to dirt.

can't think of any obvious tricks to tell you.  they shouldn't be cut too large though, the screen panels are modeled from the originals and also with a case in-hand.  tight fit, yes.

i changed the adhesive on the latest batch i got, the clear ones.  if you happen to have one of those and have noticed any difference in the adhesive bond, let me know.

also, don't try super glue.  it'll eat the paint off the screen protector, or at least discolor it.

i am smile

i added the leftover custom dmg cases here:

http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/clearance

these all have flaws in them.  nothing major, just slight cosmetic issues.

1,480

(14 replies, posted in Trading Post)

i just haven't found anything.  sorry, i thought i had mentioned to you i'd get up with you if i had news.  which i don't, so thats why silence...

i just haven't found any PCBs around that are working.  if/when i do, i'll let you know for sure

i'll also do another run of PCBs for the shop, so all hope isn't lost.  not like it was a one-off product or anything

1,481

(6 replies, posted in Trading Post)

different packaging materials will make a difference too.  check and see if your post offers flat-rate package sizes, usually these are limited only by weight and you pay a flat price regardless within that weight range.  unless you add insurance or things.

buy your shipping materials in bulk, you'll save a lot on this overhead that way.  plastic bubble mailers would probably serve your shirt purposes well, don't weigh much at all, and are relatively cheap. 

offer a range of shipping methods.  let the customer pick whichever they want, if they're willing to wait a longer time for a better price, as long as the packagind is alright it shouldn't matter.  tbh, the post will stomp a box if they want to no matter how you ship it.

take advantage of DHL service too.  i just mention them since you're in germany, but if der post doesn't have a basic shipping rate (something like First Class/Standard rate) that suits you, the price may be comparable.

but.....  the international postal union (or whatever its called) establishes equivalencies for international mailings.  (its the oldest international trade union, afaik)  there should be a similar shipping equivalent in most countries, these standards are paid for in local currency but this is converted into a common postal measuring system that allows easy transactions of international mail between customs offices (the name of that slips my mind).  check out whatever the roughly 1-3 week international basic rate is.  here its called First Class International, whatever that equivalent is there shouldn't cost too much.  it's what 75% of your customer base will go with... 

yeah, bigcartel works pretty well for most purposes.  you can set the currency to whatever you'd like as well (as a whole, not as individual product unless you modify a bit of code)

1,482

(8 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

just use the default ratings in the pop-up box they give you (the question mark)

i notice there are two greens in the pop-up though.  use 2.2 as the value first, if its not bright enough, use the other rating.  i'm betting he's using ones rated for 3.xV, but don't want to tell you that and you burn it out for some reason...

150ohm should work fine, i'm guessing you'll end up with something close to that...  but, try out a 200-220ohm one first in case he's using one of the lower voltage rated green types

1,483

(8 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

something like this: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

that one is very basic.  if you needed to add multiple LEDs for whatever reason or for a mod down the road, and just want to skip the simple math, the google search will give you some more advanced versions.

thats really all there is to it!  easy peasy, lemon squeezy

1,484

(8 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

its the resistor marked R1 on the LCD PCB. 

you can google "led resistor calculator", assume the current to be 20mA, the voltage source to be 5V, and it will spit out the resistor to use (depending on the LEDs own specs, which is the unknown variable you'll provide (i can't tell you))

or, google ohm's law and just work out the math the long way.  the little browser applet resistor calculators are nice though

actually, check out your video comments.  i think someone might have spotted the problem, LEDs aren't grounded (the breadboard isn't internally connected to ground like you're expecting i think).  or your voltage.  whatever.  one of them seems lacking, circuit isn't complete.

maybe.  i dunno.  too many wires for no coffee and add tongue

1) unless you altered the bootloader on your arduino board, then technically: there is a very very slight delay at startup, its just checking to see if you are connected to the Arduino IDE.  then the code starts right up, immediately, if you are not connected.  there are bootloaders out there with 'no wait' options which basically just take away this "wait for IDE" moment, or make it reliant on something else (like pressing a tact switch)), but unless you know you've got a unique bootloader on that atmega IC, then you've got the default arduino one.  which does wait before initiating your code, but the wait isn't enough to really have even prompted you asking the question...

2) the aboy code?  make sure you're grabbing it from its project page, and not some place that was hosting it as a back-up or something.  that would be the latest.  unless you wanted a modified version of the code, but i'm guessing not.

3) i'm not really patient enough to check the wobbly breadboard video smile  sorry...  make sure you've got 5V and Ground connected, its an easy thing to just overlook.  also, with a breadboard, make sure you're actually wiring it corresponding to the underlying traces.  i mean...  not all breadboards are laid out in the same pattern (for whatever whacky reason), i don't see any glaring mistake but its just something worth double checking.  i mean, make sure the commons aren't split somewhere you haven't realized, or whatever.  i've had that issue with using a new larger breadboard, its a very face palm thing to do.  aboy problems seems like they are face palm issues a lot of times though.

1,487

(25 replies, posted in Software & Plug-ins)

http://www.atariage.com/store/index.php … &p=101 (synthcart cartridge)
http://www.atariage.com/store/index.php … &p=930 (external MIDI2600)

i know its not what you mean, but with the above (cart + MIDI control) you could use an external device and have a lot more control over the machine than trying to do this via a cart only.  just sequence via MIDI, good software with full midi support shold allow you to pretty much whatever you'd like (well, whatever synthcart will allow, if not limited just by the atari tech).

there just isn't the level of support for the console in music making to have demanded full-on tracking on the system like you're talking about.  soooo less atari music makers than there are people using nintendo stuff.

even if you use a PC/whatever tracker and create tunes for a 2600 on this, you're still faced with the whole EPROM cart burning and playback on a console bit...

not totally unrelated, but if you pick up stuff from atariage, there is this too: http://www.atariage.com/store/index.php … &p=285 (features the 2600 in the music, but also its a CLASSIC album...  Tree Wave's Cabana EP)

1,488

(44 replies, posted in General Discussion)

^ i sort of agree with this more inclusive medium approach as well, in how this would increase the potential for involvement in any given thread.