1

(13 replies, posted in General Discussion)

http://steamcommunity.com/id/munchluxe63

I usually play my games away from steam in Fedora...

2

(53 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I have a clear case and wouldn't mind swapping with you, Frostbyte. I think some of the text on the front is scratched off, though.

3

(1,052 replies, posted in Graphics, Artwork & Design)

ui wrote:

hehe is ok! big_smile you have to practice, thats all!... btw those paletteees are ACE compilation!!!... are you gonna leave that file there?, i mean in dropbox, because i would love to add that as a resource in the list big_smile

They're for GIMP (Gnu Image Manipulation Program), so drop these files in your "~/.gnome-2.8/palettes/" folder if you use a Linux OS, or figure out the right folder for your OS if you don't use a Linux OS or just import them one by one through GIMP's palette editor.
If someone really wants me too, I could export the hexadecimal values for each...

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/50351929/palettes.tar.gz

And here's a scalable vector graphics DMG I've been working on in Inkscape:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/50351929/DMG003.png

I might just put in some to-scale pixel art on the screen using the colours from my palette once I finish.

EDIT:

And at 3000 pixel width:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/50351929/DMG005a.png

4

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I've done this before, but mine's not working at all. I soldered a ribbon cable right to the board, routed it out by the contrast dial, then spliced it with the PS/2 end of a PS/2-USB adapter, then plugged in my keyboard.

The keyboard powers up (I can toggle numlock) and I've used the correct settings, but I don't get any input.
After swapping the white and green wires (which I assumed were the clock and data wires, and there are only four wires in the cable), it still didn't work.

I also made sure the wires were all insulated after splicing.

:S

The upper right contact should be ground, the lower left contact should be +5V, and the other two should be clock and data.

Check out this thread on the Famitracker forums for some examples:
http://famitracker.com/forum/posts.php?id=1032

You can also download and look at the Demo Compo entries (should be in the Famitracker Talk section).

For a simple minor or major chord, just use a 0, 3, 7 or 0, 4, 7 arpeggio. Sometimes lengthening the arpeggios ("| 0, 0, 0, 3, 3, 3, 7, 7, 7", for example) sounds better.

The only C64 tracker I've used is Goattracker, and it's hard to use in comparison to Famitracker. If you don't care about using a SID-compatible format and only care about how it sounds, you could always use a VST.

Saskrotch wrote:
herr_prof wrote:

ive found that your groove can become fucky by doing the live mode one channel only thing versus muting the other channels in regular song mode.. especially for projects under heavy load. Even multitracking muted channels synced to an external clock "feels" different to me than just recording a stereo mix. Am I just being crazy?

Weird, I usually do something similar to live mode (start an empty row above the song and put a one phrase chain in front of the channel i'm recording) so that the CPU can focus entirely on one channel. cause when you solo a track, everything is still happening, just at 0 volume.

I guess that would explain why my noise instruments still cut out at random even in solo mode (on any gameboy)...

SketchMan3 wrote:

Have you tried BGB + Wine?

Edit: Also, with recording to Audacity, if your soundcard supports it, try switching the input device from alsa/default to hw:0/hw:1, and using the device drop down list to select "mix" or whatever it is that records directly from your PC.

WARNING, on my system, whenever I use the hw:0 device, it always stops recording after a second or two when recording the first track. However, if you record a second track with a pre-existing track already in the mix (the one that got cut off, presumably) it should keep recording until you stop it.

Yeah, I know vbam doesn't have a wav output. But it's a more stable emulator in general for linux users than vba.

I tried running BGB, but I get an error:

sound output: WaveOutOpen failed with error code 32

I can record anything easily with jack, but I can't record from anything directly through ALSA except for my microphone.

Using Fedora 17 x86_64 on a Dell XPS 15 i7 machine and wine-1.5.3.

SketchMan3 wrote:
munchluxe63 wrote:

Are there any Linux emulators that have a channel-splitting feature and are compatible with Jack?

I've used both Mednafen and VBA, but no luck... and I can't get LSDJ to run at the correct speed with VBA, anyway.

If you want VBA on Linux, use VBA-M instead. VBA has always had glitchy choppy sound and slow speed whenever I tried it on a linux system (I've only had 3 Linux systems, though, all Ubuntu). VBAM, however, is awesome. I forgot how I got it, though... I think it's in the ubuntu repository as vbam. If not, then I'm sure it'd be in the getdeb games repository.

If you have Wine, try using BGB, and set "Graphics Output" to "GDI" or something else other than the default to get rid of the choppiness. That's pretty much your best option of all. It's not Linux native, but it works just like it if you use the right settings. Plus, when you record, even if the emulator hiccups while you're doing other tasks on your computer, it still outputs the wav file perfectly.

I found VBA-M in the Fedora repository, but it doesn't seem to have any recording functionality, and I couldn't get Audacity to record from ALSA.

EDIT: okay, just saw that last post... I did try that before, but I got no alsa sound whatsoever... I'll try it again.

EDIT: vbam just freezes after loading the rom.

EDIT: turns out, you have to install alsa-plugins-jack.

EDIT: I even got flash to work, but vbam still freezes until I shut down jack.

Are there any Linux emulators that have a channel-splitting feature and are compatible with Jack?

I've used both Mednafen and VBA, but no luck... and I can't get LSDJ to run at the correct speed with VBA, anyway.

10

(1,052 replies, posted in Graphics, Artwork & Design)

I'm so bad at this...


But I have so many palettes...

11

(23 replies, posted in Software & Plug-ins)

Can't you just use select+left on the main screen to go into live mode, then start one channel?

12

(21 replies, posted in General Discussion)

Most of these I play with actual carts, but...

NES: Abadox, Silver Surfer, Pictionary, Tetris

SMS/GG: Castle of Illusion Starring Mickey Mouse, Dr. Robotnik's Mean Bean Machine, Super Columns, Columns, Shinobi 2, Shinobi, Pacman, Pinball Dreams, Micro Machines

Genesis: Columns, Comix Zone, Jurrasic Park: Rampage Edition, Kid Chameleon, Sonic Spinball, Sonic 3, Sword of Vermilion, Vectorman, Vectorman 2, Earth Worm Jim, Crüe Ball, Alien 3, Toejam and Earl: Panic on Funkotron

SNES: Pilotwings, Secret of Mana

GB/C: Yoshi's Cookie, Tetris, Dr. Mario, Pokemon Pinball, Bonk's Revenge, Super Mario Land, Super Mario Land 2: 6 Golden Coins, LOZ: Oracle of Seasons

Lynx: Rampart, Checkered Flag, Xenophobe, Pinball Jam

GBA: Drill Dozer

ultramega wrote:

where are these?

In the future.

Squidward: "FUUUUUTUUUUUURE! FUUUUUTUUUUUURE!"

14

(11 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

I'm pretty sure he means the ribbon cables running out of the screen.

Well, I try to listen to chiptunes (both modern and old-school 8/16bit game music) when I can and that influences my work. I usually just think of a tune while I'm doing something else (anything, really). I whip out my GameBoy, think of a random chord progression and key signature, then tap away.

My own Famitracker and DAW work even influences my LSDJ work to a certain extent...

16

(1,206 replies, posted in Nintendo Handhelds)

kineticturtle wrote:
Vex wrote:

Just haven't taken the trip to RadioShack to get the parts yet. It's nice to know that it can be done without removing the speaker it seems.

Don't get your jacks from RadioShack, you'll regret it in the long run. Order some Neutriks, or Switchcraft has an equivalent part I believe, although I don't know exactly how it will fit.

And yes, speaker still in, plus I squeezed in an EL backlight inverter, and based on previous experience I'm certain I could also fit in a pitch control kit if I wanted to go through pure hell again.

Even local electronics shops are better than Radio Shack (The Source if you're in Canada). They have a much wider catalogue of parts at lower prices, some of them deliver, and you can ask them anything. I get all my parts from this one Asian-run shop downtown.